Sunday, January 23, 2011

Empty Streets, Empty Beaches, Empty Inns

Sven and I made a brief trip to the Outer Cape over the weekend, zipping in and zipping out. Above, the house at Ballston Beach in Truro, which seems to totter above the shore, as if disappearance into the ocean were only a matter of the timing of high tide during the next winter storm. No beach walkers to be seen there today. This coming week a more sensible method of exercise will be skating on the ponds. I must admit we were surprised to see how empty the Outer Cape felt. No people walking around due to the cold, streets empty of cars, except for the occasional pick-up parked in the wrong direction on Main, while its owner ducked into Wellfleet Marketplace for a cup of hot soup, or the liquor store for a six-pack of beer. To my surprise, Box Lunch is closed, an unusual occurance. On the door, a sign saying they'll be back in spring. The parking lot at PJ's is torn up, as if a new septic system might be in the offing. Route 6 is clear of snow, but Old King's Highway was covered with half an inch of ice. The ice and bitter cold makes it harder than I expected for Stephanie to get out and take photos. When I picked up Sven's New York Times, the friendly folks at the Marketplace told me Janet has sold Stone Lion Inn to a family and that it will no longer remain a bed and breakfast. This loss is considerable for Wellfleet, since Stone Lion remained open all year and provided excellent accommodation. Here's wishing Janet all the best in her next endeavor...

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That's too bad about The Stone Lion, though it seemed inevitable. You have to wonder what one family is going to do in there with all those rooms and bathrooms.

Your description of Wellfleet makes me feel less badly about not being there!
1 reply · active 739 weeks ago
Well, I suppose that is good??? I was stuck by the lack of action. Of course, January is usually much more slow in general, but this year the restaurants did not get their act together and only Finely JPs and the Lighthouse are open. After Valentine's Day things will improve, and this Thursday Wicked Oyster returns, with renovated front space.
We probably won't get back until March at the earliest, maybe April. Our cottage is seasonal and uninsulated, so we can't stay there til it warms up a LOT.
It is empty, but it's a peaceful emptiness. A hibernation. And here I sit, hibernating as well. :)
Wow, it must feel like a complete ghost town there. While our vacation destination town is emptier, we still have lots of residents and it functions in the winter as well, although the restaurants (the few we have) are open fewer hours.
Down in my patch of this other sandy peninsula, the crowds of tourists are thick, but at least its 75 degrees - although storms a- blowin' in later today. I hope everyone up north stays warm and stays safe ! Regards , Stan
david wright's avatar

david wright · 739 weeks ago

It doesn't feel like a ghost town at all for those who live here. Winter is when the political/community work is done. It's also when the true social life of the town-alliances forged-commences . It's when artists do their work. Summer business is necesssary for economic survival,that's all. If we who live here wanted or needed more excitement or diversion we would be living somewhere else or could take a daytrip to Boston. To live in a town like this is a conscious choice from among many. More commercial diversion is not really an" improvement." Most of us like having dinner and making coffee at home.
1 reply · active less than 1 minute ago
I agree, totally. I love the winters here, and the quiet of the off-season. I wouldn't mind disappearing every July and August to a cooler, quieter place.
Every area has its downside...in my opinion, ours is the overcrowded, though necessary tourist season. More year-round green occupations, not just tourism jobs, might keep our communities sustainable.
janet in eastham

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