LeCount Hollow: Perfect Walk!

Keep Wellfleet Beaches Pristine

When Sven and I took a walk at LeCount Hollow two days ago, I was shocked to see not one but two dog excrement bags, you know those blue ones covered with paw prints, right on the beach. What dog owner, in his right mind, would leave such things behind? One was open, way down towards Marconi. Another I found at the foot of the parking lot dune, neatly tied up. Did the dog owners forget these bags? Did they think someone else would come along, like me, and pick them up for proper disposal? Did they hope the tide would wash them away? Should these people be considered good pet owners? You already know how I feel about renegade plastic bags, flapping in the breeze. This wanton act is almost worse. We need to all work together to keep Wellfleet beaches clean. Disgusting!

Beauty To Take Your Breath Away

Why we beachwalk at low tide: beauty to take your breath away.

OUR Beach?

So many people have gone home for the start of the school year that Wellfleet already feels deserted after the incredible influx of folks on vacation all summer, non-residents, tourists, summer people. When I saw Sharyn Lindsay yesterday, she said, "Good to have our town back, isn't it?" We totally agree. Sven and I took a walk at LeCount yesterday. Over dinner, my husband said to me, "It was nice to walk on the beach when there weren't so many people. It's like OUR beach." I could only agree.

Do any of you readers, who live here, feel the same way?

Irene Sandblasts LeCount Hollow Beach

Cottage Demolished at LeCount Hollow

During the last winter storm, erosion condemned a house on the dune close to McGuire's Landing, beside a cottage colony called Cooks by the Ocean. Sven and I visited after the kitchen floor had fallen out, visible in the photo above. I already reported on the demotion of this house, but I know a lot of you are anxious about the whole LeCount Hollow situation, so am covering the topic again. According to the DPW, beach access will be repaired once winter storms are over.

Major Erosion at LeCount Hollow Beach!

Yesterday, no equivocation at the junction of LeCount Hollow Road and Ocean View Drive – the Beach-Closed sign had been placed at the spot where beach guards check stickers in summer, and it was impossible not to see it or notice the concrete blocks preventing access by car. In the distance, a Keep-Out sign decorated a temporary sand berm that protected the wider parking area. Sven and I walked down and carefully stepped over the berm, determined to scope out LeCount Hollow Beach. As we drew closer, I realized the ocean had swept away most of the fence, and taken a large bite out of the sand dune. (In the second photo, below, you can see the broken pavement's edge.) Sand and ice covered most of the parking area, which had been swept clean by the town. While there was no detritus left by the storm, the scene reminded me of the morning after a New Year’s Eve party, where it had gotten so late that no one had bothered to clean up. It felt as if everything was reshuffled. The beach seemed wider than usual and quite impressive, with angry waves still rolling in. We were not the only gawkers. A slow but steady stream of people had parked at the Beach-Closed sign, creating a row of cars in front of the cement blocks. Sven stopped to chat with one couple. The wind was still strong and sand devils twirled their way across what was left of the deserted parking lot. To the left, through barren bushes, I glimpsed the house whose floor and kitchen had been surrendered to the storm, according to local newspapers. How awesome the power of the ocean!

Listening to Sand Dunes

I’ve noticed beachgoers, in summer, usually sit facing the ocean, or towards the sun, if a suntan is the main purpose of their visit. This typical beach behavior often means missing part of the experience. The view of the Atlantic is pretty spectacular at Wellfleet’s LeCount Hollow but I find my eyes are also drawn to the dunes, especially in quiet season. How can anyone not be moved by their beauty? On a good day, the bright blue sky creates incredible contrast with the reddish-beige sand, as in the photo above, taken last week below the Marconi Station site. On a so-so day like Thursday, when the sun played hide and seek, I find the drama is less color and more texture. Has there been a lot of erosion? Has the wind traced lines in the dune flank? Was one of the staircases buried? How high is the level of the sand? The dunes always look different and have stories to tell, if you only take the time to listen. Sometimes, this can be hard, when waves crashing demand attention, but it is always worthwhile ...

Incognito No More

I have been bringing you lots of beach photos over the past few weeks because I know many readers are feeling withdrawal, now that summer is over, and have been missing Wellfleet. It’s been cool, actually cold yesterday morning, so I had to serve breakfast inside. I chatted with our Green Room guests for an hour, about this and that. One of the main topics was renovation: another, what makes a good B&B, where guests feel comfortable, welcome and happy. Once our Liberty Coin Suite guests had arrived, it was time for LeCount Hollow.

“Who would have expected it to be warmer on the beach!” Sven exclaimed as we set off on our walk.

A fisherman positioned his poles, while his daughter played nearby. The surf was still vigorous, due to Igor, and a hint of fall had slipped into the air despite the warm sun. No seals in view, but we did see a couple beachcombers. The sand felt just right, hard as rock, perfect for walking. The waves rolled in, shooting foam up the beach. Sven even got caught unawares by a wave, which does not happen very often.

Meanwhile, I was taking photos. It's tough trying to capture the absolute beauty, because there’s this split second where you have to position and snap. If you miss that second, the photo is off. I like this shot though, don't you?

After our beach walk, Sven and I drove downtown to buy a few provisions at Wellfleet Marketplace. I ducked into the store and headed right back out. A man with short curly hair stood on the sidewalk, in front of a pick-up truck, and he was holding out his hand, as if he expected me to shake it.

“Are you the person who runs Chez ….the bed & breakfast?” he asked.

“Chez Sven. Yes, that’s me,” I said, wondering how he knew.

The stranger broke into a happy smile.

“My name is Don. I read your blog every day. I tell everyone I know. We have friends in Switzerland. I tell them, too. If you want to know what Wellfleet is like, read this blog.”

I was touched and thanked him, extremely moved. (Again, thank you, Don!) It’s nice to have one’s work recognized from time to time although it looks like my days of going incognito in town may be drawing to an end …

Early Cold Takes Tourists by Surprise

Our Green Room guests, in town for a wedding on a bay beach, shivered at the idea of venturing outside after breakfast. Sven and I shivered as we left our Volvo at LeCount Hollow in the middle of the afternoon. A group of tourists stood on the shore, shivering. One wore only a T-shirt. He clutched himself with both bare arms, poor man. As we watched, the group turned from the sea and started back towards the empty parking lot. Cold is the word that was on my mind as I followed Sven down the ramp. I think cold was on the mind of everyone who remained on that beach yesterday, one lady with a dog, a couple, and two fishermen.

“The exercise will be good for us,” Sven offered as encouragement.

I was pulling on my pink windbreaker. It did not provide much warmth. The afternoon sun, promised by the weatherman, had been a no-show. Where was my wool sweater? Back home in a drawer. Had I known it would be this cold, my attire would have been more appropriate.

“Should have worn my anorak,” I muttered.

We found the sand castles of Wednesday’s post had disappeared with the tide. The sea sponges were still in place, as was one of the crab carcasses. No children on the beach today though, too cold. We didn’t stay long, I admit. Even Sven was willing to cut short our walk, with the wind whipping white caps from the horizon. Still, I don’t regret going down for a brisk breath of sea air. We have a regular guest who loves this type of weather. Do you go to the beach when it’s cloudy and cold, or is the sun necessary to you for a “beach experience?”

In Praise of Cloudy Days

On a day like today, when the sky clouds up and a light drizzle begins to fall, our guests look despondent over breakfast, and a bit angry, as if possible recriminations against nature are running through their head. I point out walking on a beach, in non-sunny weather, can be enjoyable, too. But they go into town to shop, or to the pond instead. Apparently most tourists in Wellfleet agree with our guests because when Sven and I drove to LeCount Hollow at 4 pm yesterday afternoon, the parking lot was almost empty, only a dozen cars or so. I had expected the beach to be deserted but folks, who had rented cottages nearby and walked in, frolicked at the edge of the ocean. It was fun to watch reactions to the waves, which thundered against the shore, sending chilly spray in all directions.

“Suddenly it's become very cold!” Sven said as we descended the ramp.

Indeed, the air on the beach hit us in spurts, as if someone had deregulating that great air-conditioning system in the sky. Cold, hot, cold, hot.

“Yes. It does feel like walking away from a hot kiln, then stepping out the door into a snowstorm,” I replied and donned my windbreaker.

We don’t usually go at high tide, but we should. How thrilling the crashing waves! Even Sven was surprised by a renegade wave that rode all the way up the beach to the foot of the dune. We didn't go far, fearing the advancing tide. When the ocean roars, one needs to recognize it as a formidable enemy.

Some teenagers had built a boat in the sand. Their skipper stood half-buried, as if to challenge the mighty Atlantic. I watched their glee as the waves split into two streams at the bow and encircled the sand boat. There were budding photographers on the beach, too. One girl stalked a seagull. Parents photographed their kids, fascinated by the angry waves. Mothers hovered, ready to intervene, although I don’t know how exactly. Shout? Grab a son or daughter out of harm’s way? Dive into the water? There was no lifeguard on duty, so this would have been the option.

A beach never looks exactly the same. The landscape shifts with recent erosion. Today the power of the ocean was obvious. A ridge had formed above where the waves were breaking. (These intrepid kids had built a sand castle there before the tide had begun to rise.)

Sunny days are nice but they do not bring much variety. On cloudy days, not only does the color of the water change according to what's going on in the sky, but sometimes the surface will be smooth, sometimes riddled with waves if there's a storm at sea. Visiting an Atlantic ocean beach will always be an adventure. And, therein lies the ultimate charm …

We have regular guests from Washington, D.C., who swear by cloudy days. They get so much heat and sun at home that they really enjoy the opposite while on vacation. What is your favorite type of beach weather? Do you like to walk on the beach when it's cloudy or only go if the sun is out?

Another Beautiful Day in Wellfleet!

Another beautiful day dawned this morning, and the birds, outside my window, celebrated with birdsong. Yesterday Sven and I worked in the garden, weeding and planting potatoes, Sven's favorite, as well as more flowers. We did make it to the ocean, as these photos attest. There were a number of first-timers there, in awe of the view from the LeCount Hollow parking lot. Down on the beach, we ran into Alain and Joan Platt with their dog Carly. Our conversation went something like this:

"We've been wondering what you think of the PB Boulangeriebistro," Joan said.

"Who would have ever imagined Wellfleet to have a French bakery!" I exclaimed.

"We like the rustic bread," Alain said.

"Our favorite's the farmer," Sven said.

"But how does it compare with bread in France?" Joan and Alan asked in unison.

So, I gave them the full scoop on my impressions and recounted a conversation with my dentist, who grew up in France, lives in Yarmouth, and now finds reasons to come to the Outer Cape more often. On the way home, Sven and I stopped in to pick up bread. The Platts probably did the same. Check out the progress made on the deck. The restaurant should be open in no time ...