Recent Thoughts On Green Towels & Sheets

This week I discovered a blogger who decided to offer up some definitions of common eco-terms in her blog Living Green, Living Well. In this domain, I think we all need a little help. Have you ever tried to make sense of which towels are really best for the environment? I received an email this past week urging me to "green" my towels and clicked through to ECO-FRIENDLY GREEN EARTH TOWELS: “100% Cotton - White Only Softer, more absorbent, eco-friendly version of microcotton towels, manufactured in a state-of-the-art, bio-wasted powered, zero discharge facility that produces no emission of effluents into the local water tables ...” I was left scratching my head. With half a dozen other types of towel for sale from the same company on the same site, it seemed obvious I was witnessing a case of greenwashing. I did find some organic cotton towels this winter and ordered up a set of "Green Threads" from Organic Linen Source, located in nearby Quincy. The quality is amazing: soft and absorbent. They wash well, too. But these lovely towels only come in white (pearl) and beige (earth). Still, the next time I refresh our supply, chances are I will go with Green Threads. Organic cotton is much better for the environment than regular cotton. For anyone who does not yet know why, there’s a full explanation at Coyuchi. Ever since we began the bed & breakfast, we have been using Coyuchi sheets. While I love the feel and the fact that they are made of organic cotton, I must admit that it's hard to keep them clean. I know that sounds silly. Use detergent, duh! Well, we try to avoid detergent and go with more gentle washing products from Seventh Generation. The checked sheets are especially vulnerable to stains and sweat. Cuddledown has nice “Certified Eco-friendly” sheets, and I bought a pair for the Green Room, but they are NOT organic cotton. So far, Cuddledown has not added any organic cotton products to their hotel line. I tried Gaiam organic cotton sheets as well, but they're not as soft and need ironing. We air-dry our sheets, whenever possible. There’s nothing like the smell of fresh linens!

More Rain in Wellfleet!

Another rainy day! Our new guests said they saw a line of cars, leaving the Cape yesterday afternoon. They plan to walk around Wellfleet on a self-guided tour, using the Discover Cape Cod guide, which I mentioned two weeks ago. That sounds like a good activity for this drizzly morning. Our old guests left an hour ago, off for Logan and then home to Newcastle, England. They were wise to have booked last fall. I admired their ability to get around without a car. Did they like Chez Sven? You bet! What they had to say is at the end of the Liberty Coin Suite list. Check out recent comments here. What a lovely family! I enjoyed watching them interact with love and respect. They plan to take the flex bus to the Provincetown airport. A company has started a green shuttle to Logan. The one-way trip from Wellfleet costs $175 for three people, a bit pricey, but we wish them well. I am grateful when companies bother to contact me. Once Wellfleet has its new comprehensive Web site, all such information will be listed on it, hopefully! Speaking of companies that bother to contact bloggers, I’d like to mention Alex at iguide, who sent me the link to their Wellfleet page. Finally, check out some of the other Cape blog entries, listed at Cape Links.

Rotten Summer ...

No one has said it yet out loud, but the Cape Cod weather this summer is really lousy. The temperature feels a good 5 degrees lower than usual, its almost cold at night, and the sunshine can't seem to get its act together. New England has been the only part of the country to have such weather. Never has it rained here for most of the month of June. Remember? It was rainy and cold. Off Cape Cod, the water temperature yesterday was 66 degrees. Off New York, the water temperature shot up to 80. That's an amazing difference, when you think about it. According to NOAA, the global ocean had the warmest June on record. Not good news!!! We do NOT want that ocean so warm due to the consequences: the eventual slowing down of ocean currents, described in detail by Woods Hole oceanographers here. The weatherman was discussing the possibility of a large area of thunderstorms, out in the Atlantic, turning into a hurricane. Hurricanes feed off warm water. I can do nothing about this summer's weather but do feel for our guests. We currently have a small family from England, here without a car. Now, that is a challenge when the weather does not cooperate. They were able to take the flex bus to Provincetown yesterday for whale-watching, but what will they do this evening in the rain? It would be tough for them to get to the harbor stage for WHAT's Wildly Laughing, directed by Brendan Hughes, but it sounds like a great show and tonight's performance is followed by a Talk Back with director and cast, hosted by WHAT director Jeff Zinn. They also will have to miss fiddler Denya LeVine at Artscape in Hyannis. Actually, these guests have already reserved at Wicked Oyster and plan to walk there. Guess I'll have to get out the umbrellas ...

Why Choose a B&B rather than a Hotel

Daniel Edward Craig wrote July 8 in his blog, "Soul is an essential part of any hotel, and of lifestyle hotels in particular. It is everything abstract: personality, culture and spirit, that intangible feeling that prompts a guest to remark either 'It just felt right' or 'Something was missing.' Soul is often overlooked by hotel executives because we can’t see it, write it into an operating manual or charge a fee for it. Some hotels have all the right elements-beautiful design, quality amenities, competent service but feel like the other definition of soul: the spirit of a dead person. Soul cannot be factory-produced or mass-marketed; more than anything it’s shaped by employees. By defining the hotel's vision and values and using them to guide every decision, management develops the hotel's culture and, over time, its soul evolves organically." Mr. Craig has just made the perfect case for staying at a B&B. Know why? No hotel employee can compete with an innkeeper. I like to think of what we offer as “kid-glove care.” First off, we answer only to ourselves – no boss. Second, you have to be a pretty unusual individual to invite strangers into your own home on a regular basis. Each bed & breakfast experience is unique, based on the personality of the innkeepers, the location, the physical aspects of the B&B, and, most of all, certain choices the innkeeper has made. Chez Sven differs from most in type of breakfast (fresh fruit salad, yogurt, granola, as well as home baked goods), natural amenities, organic cotton sheets, being “green,” the fact that we accept children, our BEDS – no joke, the quality of a bed is really important. How many times have I heard guests come down in the morning, totally relaxed, and declare, “What a great bed!” That special something a good B&B possesses cannot be duplicated. If it could be bottled, we would be millionaires. Good B&Bs have more than Mr. Craig’s “soul.” Think of it as soul, plus. In fact, Sven and I approach our guests as if they were long lost relatives. No hotel can do that. Hands down, B&Bs are the way to go.

10 Reasons Why B&B Guests Should Provide Arrival Time

As an innkeeper, I appreciate knowing what time guests plan to arrive and always request this information a week prior to arrival. Approximate time means early afternoon, late afternoon, suppertime, evening. Why do I request this information?

1.) I have a life and schedule activities, like everyone else.
2.) Errands require planning in summer, since there’s traffic on Route 6. Some errands can only be accomplished in Orleans. I prefer to run my errands when my presence at the B&B is not required.
3.) Sometimes innkeepers, too, like to go to the beach.
4.) Exercise is good for the health. We have no space for an exercise bike, so I need to be able to venture out for daily walks.
5.) Registration takes at least 15 minutes. There’s nothing worse than cooking an elaborate dinner, sitting down with a glass of chilled rosé, and having the doorbell ring. Some meals cannot be microwaved. As a gourmet cook, I prefer not to reheat my food.
6.) Wait! I thought of something worse than arrivals during dinner: arrivals after our cut-off time of 9:30, late for those of us who get up early and make breakfast.
7.) I have friends, who invite me to do things. I cannot do anything but sit here and wait if I do not know what time guests plan to arrive.
8.) How about putting a note on the door, BACK SOON, YOU BABOON and making the GUESTS wait? Not an option. We are in the business of hospitality here.
9.) A B&B is not a hotel. It is a small family business, without staff. And, currently Sven is in Sweden.
10.) I reject the idea that guests do not know when they plan to arrive as total hogwash. Everyone has a vague concept of how long the trip should take and possible departure times.

Yes, guests have kept me waiting again. Often this behavior accompanies a last-minute booking, and each year I swear to myself that I will refuse these requests. Such people confuse B&Bs with motels. Anyone who does not have the decency to inform me of arrival time will get minimal breakfast. I may even haul out the lumpy old mattress from the shed. I need to know approximate time of arrival. Most folks oblige me with a response, a few do not. I have learned to beware of those guests who do not. They are usually the ones an innkeeper does not want back.

PS. Not this time. It turned out these guests simply had B&B phobia. Yes, it does exist! While checking in, they regaled me with horror stories of former B&B stays, including a place with unwashed sheets and cockroaches. They said a simple piece of toast would do for breakfast. Wait until the see the spread set out on the kitchen table! I think they were pleasantly surprised by Liberty Coin Suite last night and will plan to return for a longer visit, informing me of approximate arrival time after booking the room ….

Getting the Facts Right ...

Women On Their Way has reprinted a 2008 article about the Outer Cape in fall, written by Meg Noonen for Endless Vacation. The writing is good, but some of the facts are not. When I spot one mistake, I wonder how many I might be missing. One particular statement I found hilarious was that Mac’s Shack is a former colonial post and beam. The author also misidentifies the part of Truro which Hopper liked to paint. The problem with knowing the Cape so well is that freelance journalists, who live elsewhere, cannot get away with such fluff. Can you spot the errors in the paragraph that mentions Wellfleet, Lay of the Land?

Friends of the Wellfleet Libraries Hold Annual Book Sale

Wellfleet has a special relationship with books. First we had Edmund Wilson and Dwight Macdonald, titans of the 1940s critical world. Nabokov visited Wilson. Wilson married Mary McCarthy. Perhaps this literary connection was what drew Elaine McIlroy to our sleepy little town in the early 1970s. Elaine transformed the Wellfleet Public Library into one of the very best libraries in the country. Money was raised for a new home in a renovated former candle factory. More recently, Elaine spearheaded a drive to finance solar panels for its roof. Citizens who love to read flocked to her side, creating the Friends of the Wellfleet Libraries, which meets monthly and sponsors two annual book sales. The first was to take place last Sunday but it was postponed due to rainy conditions. The book sale is being held today until 1 pm. Since morning means breakfast preparation for me, I rarely get down in time for the opening rush towards the special volumes table. Today's collection of books was especially impressive and throngs of people made it to the sale before I did. All the same, I found a hardback copy of one of my favorite books, Alice Sebold's The Lovely Bones, which made me happy. Young Madison was also very pleased with her purchases. I heard a man speaking into a cell phone, "I'm at the sale!" There was a pause. "Why, at town hall, of course!" he yelled, as if it were the only sensible place to be. Who knows what one may find? Authors often have copies of books that have been signed by other authors, who were friends. Their descendants sometimes donate them for the sale, and they end up on the tables outside town hall. We can all be grateful to the volunteers who make Wellfleet's book sale such a success. The second sale of the summer will be held August 9th. Don't miss it!

"Full" Summer & NECN Contest & WPH Concert

Yesterday summer lumbered across the Cape like a big black bear and seemed to squat down, right on top of Wellfleet. Hot, humid air made us realize how nice the cool days have been, despite the lack of rain. But, last night, the heavens opened up and at last there was a downpour after a week of pleasant sunshine. "May I take a picture of your garden?" asked a guest. "It's so colorful." For the first time in ages, I took the time to look at what I had created and realized he was right: it was colorful! So, out came my camera, not to photograph a beach or pond, but to capture the butterflies flitting from butterfly bush to butterfly bush. I am grateful to everyone over the past year who has told me, "Love your blog!", as happened yesterday in the comments. Now blog readers, time to unite and vote for Chez Sven in the NECN Cape contest called A-list. Here is the Web site. I need a bit of a boost these days. I realize Cape A-list is not a blog contest, because most innkeepers are not writers, and therefore blog contests of any worth do not have an appropriate category for me, but many of you have visited Wellfleet and know a great bed & breakfast when they see one. Tough to compete with only three rooms, against the biggies, with multiple guests at a time. But, let's try. Finally, help raise money for Wellfleet Preservation Hall by attending this evening's concert at the Congregational Church, "An Evening of Chamber Music with members of the Boston Pops, Kennedy Center Opera House Orchestra, National Symphony, and special guest Dar Williams." Champagne and dessert reception follows. Do not miss this one, 7:30, and get there early! The last time Dar performed the line was around the block.

What We Leave Behind

It's surprising how many guests leave personal objects behind after staying here. This tendency presents a problem. What to do with all the junk? Combs, bathing suits, clothing, books … There have been times when guests will call, or write, and I diligently pack up the object and send it off. These days many of our guests live in Great Britain. Postal rates have greatly increased, so we have decided the guest must pay for postage but the service remains free. As we progress through life, we also leave things behind, sometimes friends, more often attitudes that have been outgrown like last year’s frilly shirt, no longer fashionable. We change jobs, cities, husbands, wives, and, in my case, countries and cultures, as well as husbands. We shed bits of ourselves each time, like the Tin Woodman, losing limbs as the enchanted axe of the Wicked Witch of the East chopped away. The Woodman was reconstructed out of tin and needed a heart. Sometimes I feel like the Tin Woodman, patched together, once a French housewife, then a DJ, now an innkeeper, but forever a writer. That essential part of me I cannot leave behind.

To Kayak, or Not to Kayak?

Kayaking is a great way to see nature and get a glimpse of the coastline up close. But first, let me make a confession: I have never kayaked. Oh, I’ve admired kayakers from afar, for sure. I’m a veteran kayak-watcher. I even gave Sven a yellow sea kayak as an engagement present a dozen years ago. In his youth, my husband could do that fancy flip-over Eskimo-style roll where you’re dry one minute and dripping wet the next. He can also spot a top-quality paddle when he sees one. I said to myself Sven’s the type of person who needs a kayak to feel fully equipped for life on Cape Cod, at least that’s what I thought at the time. Since then I have assisted with the transport of his kayak to and fro, even helped him lift it out of the bay for an agonizing slow 50-yard dash to our old car – removal at Duck Harbor proved a lot harder than getting in at Power’s Landing! Our Volvo is rack-less now, which means the kayak doesn’t see water anymore, aside from the rain. Sven has gotten older, too. His kayak ended up stored beside the cottage and became a nesting place for a couple of wrens. All this to explain I am not to be considered an expert on kayaking. I do know, however, that a kayak is the perfect vehicle in which to explore the waterways of Cape Cod. Here is a Web site with information about local kayaking. I often tell guests about Jack’s boat rentals on Gull Pond and suggest kayaking through the sluiceway into Higgins Pond, but this Web site provides other tempting options as well. Betty and Al, longtime Cape vacationers, got the jump on me because they had made reservations prior to arrival and went kayaking in Orleans with Explore Cape Cod. On the water for more than four hours, they returned enchanted. Their naturalist guide was knowledgeable and friendly. “We highly recommend it,” they said. Our guests even saw seals. Explore Cape Cod has tandems and dawn excursions that look amazing. Now, if I could find someone to make breakfast for the guests ....

The Encore

Another morning, another breakfast. Well, not quite. We still have the French pastry chef staying with us. What could I do as an encore for my banana bread? Most people love the organic blueberry scones, which I bake right before guests sit down to the table. Today I decided to try something different to make the scones extra special, add fresh organic black raspberries from the garden! Yesterday, on Cape & Islands Radio, Mindy Todd was speaking with a master gardener and fielded a question about raspberries. The caller said her canes had gone wild, what with all the rain this past month. My raspberries also have become a jungle. I picked a bowl and placed the raspberries strategically on the scones, like jewels, before slipping the pan in the oven. First the guests devoured the granola, yogurt, and fresh fruit salad. On to the scones. I peeked through the kitchen window as the chef raised a scone to his mouth. A smile of contentment spread across his face. Success once more!

Professional French Chef Has Breakfast At Chez Sven!

Daunting, the idea of serving a professional French pastry chef breakfast! Will my homemade granola satisfy him? What about the coffee cake? Will the subtle mixture of flavors – banana and walnut – be satisfying to his sensitive palate? I feel nervous as the couple sits down at the vintage table outside. Of course, the first thing the chef does is cut himself a piece of banana cake. I finish serving coffee and, unable to contain myself one minute longer, ask breathlessly, “So, how’s the coffee cake?” “Tasty,” he says. Always the perfectionist, I search his voice for hidden meaning. Is he just being polite? Did my concoction pass muster? Will he go for seconds? I tell the story of Lorenzo Dow Baker, who first imported green bananas to the USA. While we are discussing how most bananas today are treated with chemicals, lo and behold, the guest takes a second slice of cake. “You must like it!” I exclaim. “Very good!” he pronounces. Hurray! Success.

When a Summer Activity Becomes a Tradition ...

Our weekend guest was in town for a quick reunion with relatives. She had come to the Cape as a child and said her siblings also treasured memories of Wellfleet. Now they all bring their own children every summer. Twenty-five strong the cousins convene on a certain beach. What a nice tradition! For some families, going out to eat at a favorite restaurant is the activity that marks the highpoint of a week of vacation, one that will be repeated year after year. Gradually that outing becomes a family tradition. My parents used to take me and their grandkids to the Lobster Hutt, now Mac’s Shack. After dinner, we would have ice cream at Just Desserts, no longer in existence. Some families get together for a bonfire on the beach: the smell of grilled hot dogs and marshmallows will be what they pass on as the olfactory sensations that summon obligatory memories of Cape Cod. After years of bonfires on the beach in summer, no holiday will feel quite right without dinner around a bonfire. I have cousins who always included a fishing trip off Duck Harbor on one of their seven days here, whether in a rowboat, powerboat, or rubber raft. Do you have a family tradition connected to Wellfleet?

Oysters, Endless Source of Inspiration

In Wellfleet, Oysters can be found in the darnedest places. Silver oysters dangle from jewelry store displays as pins or charms. Wellfleet Chamber T-shirts sport the images of an oyster. Local confectioner Jade Huber sells chocolate oysters in her shop in South Wellfleet. Piles of real oysters await consumption outside The Bookstore and are on the menu at every single eatery in town except Flying Fish, which serves pizza. Wellfleet even has a restaurant called The Wicked Oyster. Art galleries offer inedible oysters to take home by Kim Kettler and other Outer Cape artists. Oysters inspired the Oysterfest in mid-October, where Kettler sets up a temporary Oyster Museum of Art. Of course, shellfishermen collect bushels of oysters out on the flats at low tide and children pick up oyster shells at Mayo Beach. There are so many empty oyster shells that we use them instead of gravel and they crunch under the tire treads on our driveway. Now the Wellfleet Harbor Actors’ Theater brings summer entertainment, entitled – what else? – The Happy Oyster Spectacular Show. Here’s a brief description: “A fast-paced comedy review that places contemporary culture under the microscope - one with a fractured lens. Good Morning America, Garrison Keillor, YouTube, drug commercials, and dating services are just a few of the subjects that fall prey to Subtractive Media's satirical examination.” You can read impressions from a cast member here. If the economic crisis has got you down, go laugh at WHAT every Sunday this summer, through August 30, 8 p.m. Tickets here.

Pond-Walker, Local Poets, Annual Book Sale

Last weekend’s New York Times travel section carried a three-page article about Cape poet Mary Oliver and her walks around Provincetown, especially in the Province Lands. As I was reading, I came upon the term “pond-walker,” a great way to describe someone who prefers quiet Cape woods to the boisterous Atlantic. Sven and I pond-walk more frequently in fall and winter when the leaves crunch underfoot, than summer. Our pond of preference, Dyer, above, last October. Ms. Oliver, who lives in Provincetown, walks Blackwater Pond apprently. She has written half a dozen books of poetry. The poem quoted in the travel section was about walking at dawn and meeting a deer in the woods. Wellfleet’s great poet Marge Piercy has written similar poems about deer, spotted outside her pane-glass window. She, too, is often inspired by nature. There’s a good chance to find books by local poets like Oliver or Piercy, at the Wellfleet library's annual book sale, which will take place tomorrow morning, Sunday, behind town hall, to benefit the library, of course. This pond-walker will be there, if I can get breakfast served in time!

Do You Need Reservations for Wellfleet Restaurants?

Summer guests always ask whether reservations are required at local restaurants. I always say yes to Wicked Oyster and Finely JPs. The other Wellfleet eateries, which we recommend, operate on a first come, first served basis. This week a guest wanted to go to Mac’s Shack but decided against it due to the line of people waiting outside. Success will do that to you. Perhaps the shack will have to start taking reservations? There was a great article in the spring issue of Edible Cape Cod, featuring Mac, his brother Alex, and cousin Sam posed in front of their new white fence. The boat and shellfisherman on the roof have been attracting attention for years. The shellfisherman is supposed to be Joe Francis, who once owned the building, father to David of Lobster Hutt fame, and was created by local artist Paul Suggs whose work can be viewed here.

New Guidebook Gives Tips On Hiking, Biking & Paddling

It has been a long time since anyone produced a Cape Cod guide that pleases innkeepers from Bourne to Provincetown. The Appalachian Mountain Club’s new Discover Cape Cod by Michael O’Connor does just that. If this innkeeper is wearing such a wide smile it is because she now possesses a book with easy-to-read tips to the best hiking, biking and paddling in the region, activities, which are exactly what most of my bed & breakfast guests seek out while here on vacation. Without further ado, I tested the guide on the guests from Scotland. Upon their return this evening after filling up on tasty food at Pearl, they pronounced Discover Cape Cod “excellent.” The trail they chose for their last expedition was “Nauset Marsh to Coast Guard Beach,” a hefty six-mile trek through marshland and dune. Our Scottish gentleman is a geologist by trade, which may explain this choice – as well as the fact that over the past week, they have explored the Wellfleet trails already. Another reason may be getting to see Doane Rock, perhaps “the largest glacial erratic in southeast New England.” The popular Atlantic Cedar Swamp Trail at Marconi is listed with a rating Easy to Moderate. Closing my eyes, I run my finger down the list of peddling options to the bottom: Province Lands Bike Trail, identified as “one of the most starkly beautiful natural environments on the East Coast.” So true. This is the trail I always suggest to bikers because of its savage beauty. Wellfleet’s ponds are, of course, fully described, with suggestions on HOW to paddle Gull. I learned Williams is slowly becoming a marsh, and that the Herring Pond, nearby, feeds the Herring River. At the beginning of each main section, O’Connor provides guidelines for safety and etiquette, a nice touch which many guidebooks neglect. I was pleased to find mention of risk of Lyme Disease. O’Connor also thinks to suggest walks within four Cape towns, including Wellfleet. Nature and history essays, covering every topic from Pilgrims to coyotes and striped bass, are interspersed among the biking, hiking, and paddling tips. Outdoors types who plan to visit the Outer Cape would do well to first study Discover Cape Cod, an indispensable addition to every athlete’s backpack. I can already tell that one copy will not be enough for this little bed & breakfast ...

Thoughts on Guests, Chemical Sensitivity, and Body Burden

We do love our guests! One of them listed us in a guide for the chemically sensitive, so I often field phone calls from people in search of a chemically-free environment, in a beautiful spot where they will not wheeze, where they can simply live. The latest person I spoke to told me she reacts to any type of fragrance. I explained there was no way to stop guests from using perfume during their stay, and so I have requested removal from the guide since it is impossible to offer any type of guarantee. She was grateful that I had simply listened and understood her problem. In such a case, I always list the products we use, including Seventh Generation washing powder for our sheets. The folks at Seventh Generation really impress me with their research. Most recently their newsletter included an article about body burden, and I advise you all to go read here. I have always wondered about my own body burden. $10,000 for the test. Guess I will not be doing it soon. On this gray day, I started by saying how much Sven and I enjoy our guests. Tomorrow the little family in Liberty Coin Suite will continue on to New York prior to their return to Scotland. It is hard to say good-bye, when we know there is not much chance of seeing them again. Such charming people, who put their eight days to great use and did not complain once about the weather. Sven and I also enjoyed the Romanian couple who live in Maine and returned for a second year in a row. They even invited us over to the cottage for a drink. The problem with Seagull Cottage is that we leave guests very private, and, in so doing, do not spend as much time together. "What a shame!" we all agreed. I love having creative people around me. It’s so stimulating. Check out the way they decorated the artwork in the cottage kitchen!

Pearl Does Shine

“Beautiful bar upstairs,” a fellow diner told his companion as Sven and I settled in behind our recycled table at Pearl. Light green walls softened the otherwise black and white décor. By looking out the window anyone can see why it would be hard to go wrong in such a great location. Pearl follows a tradition of great restaurants on the site. There’s an even better view from the deck upstairs where cocktails are served with raw bar. Pearl is spacious, I noted, glancing around me: 215 seats. The horseshoe crab motif on the wall caught my eye. Our gracious middle-aged waitress brought me kale soup, which hit the spot. I could imagine arriving by boat in Wellfleet harbor during a storm and warming up with a cup of this hearty soup! Mmm-hmm. Our meals came quickly: I opted for salad; Sven had the ribs. Turns out they’re one of chef Bob Wageman’s specialties. “Are you enjoying that?” I asked. “I think they have a good chef,” Sven concluded, licking his fingers. Our only complaint was the noise, but that seems to be a constant in most Wellfleet eateries. Pearl gets extra points for its recycling efforts, which you can read about here. Traditional fare, large portions, family-oriented …. Here’s pricey competition for Moby Dick’s in the Best Family category, without a doubt!

Why Walk a Beach in the Evening?

To reach the Atlantic from Chez Sven, you must drive two miles up Long Pond Road, which twists and turns, to Ocean View Drive. In winter, the road is deserted. In summer, cars zip by cyclists and pedestrians alike as parents escort children wrapped in towels home from one last swim. Everyone is in vacation mode and no one is paying much attention to traffic. In fact, civilization is the furthest thing from the mind of your typical tourist. The road is narrow, and driving to the ocean can be a challenge to natives, used to empty roads. When Sven drove up to the beach the other day, he realized summer requires a different pace, something I already knew. (Anyone who has been following this blog knows that he usually is in Sweden by now. This year my husband will only go abroad for two weeks, July 14-30.) Most people rush to the beach in the late morning. Sven and I like to walk LeCount Hollow when the sun is going down. The colors are spectacular, even on the back shore. We went up two days ago. Unusual cloud formations made the experience truly amazing. The lavender light, reflected in the water, and the bright, clear Cape air took our breath away. The waves lapped at the shore. The ocean was calm. A seal poked his head out of the sea, as if to say, “Come play!” How peaceful it was! People visit the beach at the end of the day for a bonfire but rarely choose evening for a walk. They do not know what they're missing!

Update on French Restaurant and Bakery

Last winter brought a rumor that Wellfleet would have its own French restaurant and bakery. The old clam shack on LeCount Hollow Road stood vacant for months although the Selectman did approve the project in February. Every once and a while a car would park there, but locals started scratching their heads. Would a restaurant really materialize on the site? It turns out the answer is yes. Now that the financing has finally come through, classically trained chef Philippe Rispoli and his wife Valeria do plan to convert the building into a bistro and boulangerie, with the assistance of Boris Villatte, formerly executive baker at Wynn Resort in Las Vegas. This news is so extraordinary, for someone who lived in France for 25 years, that I would never have even dreamed our little town could manage such a feat: not only a real French chef, but a real French baker! Amazing! On Friday, Philippe and Boris rolled up their sleeves and got to work, literally, with axes and shovels, removing old tiles, knocking down walls, juiced up with the excitement of a new adventure. I stopped in to say hello and welcome. The bakery should be selling fresh bread by September. The restaurant will open shortly after that. What great news!

Wellfleet Holds Fourth of July Parade

Wellfleet’s Fourth of July parade is a unique experience, and I always try to attend. Unfortunately, this year doxycycline after a tick bite makes me sensitive to the sun, so I could neither march with the Cape Cool folks, nor zip around taking photos the way I have done in previous years. Here, in our garden, Sven and I can hear the hubbub clear across town. Sirens whine as a fire engine or two shows off its stuff. Every once and a while a loud honking pierces the usual silence. When a steady drumbeat reaches my ears, I know Lisa Brown has hit the pavement on the eastern side of town. There is always a peace contingent. Everyone can march if they want to. This year saw the advent of Cape Care, medical staff from the area in favor of single-payer health care reform. It’s easy to imagine on-lookers waving small American flags or clapping for their favorite floats, while kids scramble to pick up candy or peanuts, thrown by the marchers. There must be even more people than usual along Main and Commercial streets, if one is to judge from the number of blog searches for information on “Wellfleet Fourth of July” over the past few days. The excellent weather was a pleasant surprise: not too hot, not to cold, plenty of sunshine and bright blue sky. I will miss having seen Mignon Berry, of Moby Dick's restaurant, who always rocks out during the parade and must be exhausted for days afterwards. By 11:30, the noise has quieted down and I await our Liberty Coin guests, from Scotland, who attended the parade to absorb some real old-fashioned American tradition, and used my camera to take these photos. "Great atmosphere!" they told me, upon their return.

On Digging Holes at the Beach

What makes digging a hole so satisfying? From the distant past drift memories of first expeditions to a beach. No parent would dream of letting a toddler set forth at low tide without a pail and shovel, so pail and shovel in hand. Sand is a malleable substance and moving it around empowers the small child. What fun to explore this new medium! Sand can be piled together and shaped into a mountain, then patted on all sides and decorated with shells or stones. "What a great castle!" the parent exclaims. He or she intervenes and around the castle goes a moat. The child uses the shovel to move more sand nearby and soon the landscape has been drastically altered with the creation of a hole. The pail makes it possible to pour water from the ocean into this receptacle. Oh, no! The water seeps through, and a first lesson is learned: you can dig a hole, but you cannot make it hold water. From now on, we create empty holes, lots of them. And use the pail in other ways. Satisfaction enough.

Activity Round-up

Here's a photo from the first week of July 2008. July 2009 has begun, but who would have guessed? Drizzle, clouds, fog, weathermen predicting at least two more weeks of this horrible cold weather. America has just had the worst economic crisis in decades, California is in a dire financial state, and now summer is a no-show in New England. If Wellfleet's weather may not be ideal for the usual summer activities, there's always a lot going on here on the Outer Cape. Do not forget to visit public library’s calendar of events for evening options on a rainbow of topics. How about going to the theater while in Wellfleet? The 25th season plays performed so far this year at WHAT have received rave reviews. WHAT for Kids kicks off July 7. During the day, admire new paintings in our galleries. Left Bank Gallery starts its season with talented artist Jim Holland who captures Cape light in fascinating ways. Wellfleet Preservation Hall organized the great garden tour. Find other summer activities to benefit WPH here. The Historical Society will hold another house tour July 12, the same day as the library's annual book sale. Sign up to see Wellfleet’s modern houses and find info about a symposium here for the weekend of August 22-23. Truro is celebrating 300 years this summer, and so natives,non-residents and tourists alike get to take in interesting lectures, walks, etc available in our neighboring town. Check out activities at the Truro Center for the Arts at Castle Hill, where there are still openings for some workshops. Whew! That’s a lot going on, and thank you to all the organizations, which sent me reminders. Now, on to one more thing. Last week the Wellfleet Citizens’ Economic Development Committee presented its final conclusions to the Board of Selectmen. I was not able to attend but wanted everyone to read Marilyn Miller’s account here. The most important conclusion, in my opinion, is that Wellfleet be considered a year-round destination and be promoted as such with a comprehensive Web site separate from the Chamber of Commerce, one that would allow us all to receive information on everything that is going on here with a click of the mouse.