Dining Out in Wellfleet: Winslow's Tavern

Winslow’s Tavern is a great place for a quiet lunch or dinner. We parked in the lot behind town hall, right in the center of Wellfleet. I had heard from guests that the bistro fare was excellent at Winslow’s. We were not disappointed. As I peered around at the pale yellow walls and wide pine boards of what had once been Aesops’ Tables, my daughter commented that the place seems bigger now. Indeed, the restaurant was gutted three years ago and what an incredible renovation job! Pillars and plants divide the various sections of the dining room. It is also possible to dine outside. I noticed the fresh flowers on our table as I perused the spring menu. Our waitress described the specials with a smile. After a yummy Gazpacho, I enjoyed blue fish with potato salad. My daughter ordered Grilled Shrimp and Scallop Skewers with Greens and Pea Salad. I had heard from guests that the wines are great, but we opted for a pitcher of white Sangria. From the desert menu, we chose panna cotta and pot de crème. The former was light and delicious. The dense chocolate of the pot de crème would have been the perfect choice for three people who wanted to share. Tracy, the owner, stopped by our table to make sure all was well. I will continue recommending Winslow’s Tavern for its bistro menu, easy parking, pleasant ambiance, and gracious hosts.

Miniature Golf, Anyone?

Children love miniature golf. The game was patented by Garnet Carter in 1927 at Lookout Mountain, Tennessee. His “Tom Thumb Golf” had a fairytale theme. By 1930 Carter had sold over 3000 franchises. I do not know when the first mini-golf opened on Cape Cod, but the game has been popular here in summer since the Sixties at least. My kids always wanted to play. To their minds, a vacation without mini-golf would not be a vacation. There are fourteen courses listed in the Yellow Pages, including one at the Flea Market in Wellfleet. According to Cape Cod Life, Pirates’ Cove in South Yarmouth is the best miniature golf on the Cape. It has won “Best Kid’s Activity” from 1996-2007. There is a small mini-golf located next to the driving range in Eastham. A game costs $2. The crew at Arnold’s Lobster & Clam Bar recently renovated their miniature golf, also in Eastham. The setting is attractive with waterfalls, shade trees, and rose bushes. You can even learn trivia about the Cape, like this bit of information on Eastham's windmill, below. A game is pricey at $8/person, money well spent on a hot summer’s day like today. Cedar Banks Links Adventure Golf, beside Arnold's, is open 10 am to 10 pm.

The Benefit of Having Coyotes Nearby

We no longer hear coyotes howl at night. They have moved further up the Cape, or into the National Seashore. The positive thing about coyotes was that they ate the rabbits. Now the rabbits are back. Mother Rabbit even sent Baby Rabbit into my garden with a recommendation to eat the morning glories and correopsis before the stems became too tough to chew. She also advised that the fresh young cosmos sprigs are especially tasty, with a flavor similar to feathery carrot tips. How happy she was when I planted beans! My daughter Stephanie helped me with the trellis. The beans are for Juliette, my granddaughter, who is coming here in a few weeks. I have not grown pole beans in a while. They quickly sprouted. Mother Rabbit saw the purple leaves poking out of the ground and quickly sent Baby Rabbit into the vegetable patch where my sister-in-law had planted peppers. My sister-in-law had shrugged when I asked if rabbits liked them. Well, they do. So, this morning, I transplanted the peppers into the fenced garden by the road. I also moved every single bean plant and relocated the trellis beside the bush beans, several weeks ahead of the pole beans and getting ready to produce vegetables for little Juliette.

More Events at the Library & LeCount Hollow Today

Sunbathers were enthralled by the surfers at LeCount Hollow Beach this afternoon (above). By the time we had walked down to Marconi, storm clouds were rolling in and the vista had completely changed, but the surfers were still out there, enjoying the waves (below). To continue from yesterday's blog with more details from the library's calendar, the Friends of the Wellfleet Libraries' Annual Distinguished Speaker will be Dr. Drew Gilpin Faust, president of Harvard and author of This Republic of Suffering: Death and the American Civil War, July 17 at the Congregational Church. I also noted that my friend Selectman Dale Donovan will speak about lighthouses July 9, an event sponsored by the Historical Society of Wellfleet. David Wright will discuss his forthcoming book on the shellfishing industry, also a Historical Society event, September 10. There are lots of great lectures and events to attend, so do check the calendar.

Wild Roses & Wellfleet Library Summer Program

I was admiring the wild roses on my drive to Wellfleet Public Library where the latest book by Margot Livesey awaited me, obtained through CLAMS. There are wild roses here at Chez Sven, along Old King's Highway, but they do not climb as high as along the road from the dump to the library. The blossoms were literally up in the trees. At the library, Elaine McIlroy gave me a copy of the summer program and told me Margot Livesey will be reading from The House on Fortune Street July 10th at 8 pm. I whooped with joy, not having expected to have the opportunity to get my copy of her earlier book, Eva Moves the Furniture, signed. There is always so much going on at our library in the summer. I noted other speakers, including Ruth Nemzoff who will read from her new book Don't Bite Your Tongue: How to Foster Rewarding Relationships with Your Adult Children (July 28), one lecture I should certainly attend, and Daniel Heyman, who will discuss his work making portraits of Iraqi torture victims as personal political statements and as part of a long tradition of printmakers who recorded wars in their art (July 22). Finally, there was news of the popular annual Friends of the Wellfleet Libraries book sales, July 13 and August 10.

Sunsets, Solar Panels, The Green Guide, and . . .Bug Oil?

Yesterday evening our guests went to Duck Harbor to see the sunset, but a front rolled in and no sunset was to be seen, so I thought I would post this photo for them from last year. I was sitting outside, yesterday morning, talking life with two of our other weekend guests, and more specifically discussing my hope to install solar panels in the not too distant future, when it occurred to me how pleased I was that Roland, from Germany, and his fiancée, Caroline, from England, had chosen Chez Sven. I will send them an article that was awaiting me online this morning, sent my son Paul. Our Liberty Coin Suite guests, also leaving today, told me they had photocopied an article from one of our Green Guides. What's more, they intend to subscribe and will tell all their friends about this wonderful publication, now published by National Geographic. A most successful weekend!

Wellfleet Historical Society to Hold Annual Strawberry Festival

Tomorrow the Wellfleet Historical Society will hold its annual Strawberry Festival on the lawn behind Preservation Hall, formerly the Wellfleet Catholic Church, in the center of town. This is an event which I always seem to miss, since I am either waiting for guests or tidying up. The time is 2:00 o'clock to 4:00. We have a full house this weekend, and I told them all to check out the event. Guests are emailing every day now for the Fourth of July. Unfortunately - for them - we are fully booked. This year folks seem to be booking more in July than August, an unusual phenomenon which I have never experienced before. Here are the organic strawberries which I served this morning, ripe and flavorful, straight from Barnstable via Hatch's fruit stand.

What Does Every Guest Want?

According to I Love Inns, every guest is looking for an authentic experience. What is happening during their visit in Wellfleet? What is like to live here? Well, just read this blog to know that! We bend over backwards to provide an authentic experience and are happy when our guests are happy. The two people who stayed in Seagull Cottage last week were among our most enthusiastic guests. Here is the note they left: “Our three-day weekend was blissful. We felt like we were cherished guests of a dear friend or cousin. After a warm welcome, we were on our own to enjoy the comforts of home. Seagull Cottage is indeed a little jewel.” While I am really pleased at such positive feedback, I would like to explain why staying in the main house can be rewarding, too. In the cottage, we greet guests and explain Wellfleet. Then we leave them alone. Seagull Cottage is perfect for a romantic getaway. Main House guests – both Green Room and Liberty Coin – interact with me every morning. Through serving them breakfast, real contact is an option. Sven found a Liberty Coin under the Main House floor and loves to tell the history of our old house. Guests remember such a place. Indeed, word of mouth is our best source of publicity!

New Businesses Open On Route 6

Folks arriving in Wellfleet this summer will notice some changes along Route 6. Behind and left of Shepley's lumberyard, a large wooden edifice is slowly rising, which is to become Wellfleet's Catholic Church. Across the highway, Eric's Seafood is now Monkey See, Monkey Do, a restaurant that serves pizza. Shepley's took the spot that once belonged to Consider the Lilies. Visitors who regret the loss of a garden center will be happy to know Sunflowers Nursery has opened in South Wellfleet, a great place to pick up one last hanging basket. Further down the road, towards Truro, the structure that will become our fancy new fire station is already making firemen smile, while townsfolk shrug as they drive past, aware we need a better facility but none too pleased that our taxes will increase.

Mac's Shack Serves Clams, Too

Today I had occasion to drive down to the pier, past Mac's Shack, one of my destinations, in order to refurbish our restaurant book with current menus. I snapped this photo from the parking lot of the tide changing at Uncle Tim's Bridge. The Mac's Shack staff was busy preparing food. Seems folks love eating there. We had two sets of guests who refused to go anywhere else. Four nights of Mac's Shack for each set, despite my entreaties. Mac's got a great review in the New York Times last year. In 2008, Mac's was reviewed by Frommer's. Here is what the reporter wrote: "Mac and Alex Hay are brothers on a mission: They want to run the best darn clam shack on Cape Cod. In 2006 they rehabbed the landmark Lobster Hutt building (it's the large building with the boat and fisherman on the roof) and opened to the raves of the summer crowd. Come here for Wellfleet's world-famous oysters from an expert shucker at the extensive raw bar. Standard clam shack fare, such as lobster dinners and fried clams, is served, and there's a sushi bar." (Frommer's content excerpted from Frommer's Cape Cod, Nantucket and Martha's Vineyard 2008, Wiley Publishing, Inc.) Clam shack? Pretty sophisticated food for a clam shack, if you want my opinion. I loved the tofu with green mango, no longer on the menu. It is simpler than last year, which is good because too much choice can be confusing. Next time I go, think I'll try the Coconut Curried Scallops or maybe the Wasabi-Soy Marinated Salmon or the Swordfish with Red Pepper Coulis ... Mmm-hmm! Oh! And Mac's serves clams, too.

The Beauty In Nature

As I age, I notice the beauty in Nature much more. Sometimes I wonder why. Was I too busy leading my life as a younger person to take the time required to see what was before my eyes, or have I changed so that natural beauty seems more wonderful than it did before? Here in Wellfleet we are fortunate to be surrounded by Nature. The Atlantic Ocean, from Ocean View Drive, takes the breath away, stretching across the horizon, like an enormous tea cup, full of deep blue. Gull Pond, in the photo posted yesterday, shines like an enormous topaz or opal. Dyer Pond, in winter, crusted with ice, sparkles with diamonds of light. My favorite drive, as I never fail to tell our guests, is up Chequessett Neck. The view across the water towards Great Island is spectacular, especially at sunset. But I do not have to go out to observe beauty. Yesterday, as I peered from the kitchen window, sunshine, streaming through the Japanese maple leaves, stopped me dead in my tracks. And now the Oriental poppies have opened in my front garden. They look almost artificial, like pink tissue paper some clever person has twisted into flowers. Yet, they are real. I want to share their beauty with blog-readers today, both young and old.

High Season?

I just had a potential guest request one night, “since our season has not started yet.” I shrug off such comments and explain we do not do one-nighters as a general rule, that the season at Chez Sven is not just July and August, the way it may be elsewhere. Preparing a room is hard work for the innkeeper. I do the job myself, but if I hired someone, the cost would be around $50/hour. It takes more than two hours to prepare the cottage, which is a total of four rooms. Amenities cost around $10. Organic breakfast for two runs $20 to $25. Then there is the wear and tear on the organic cotton sheets and towels to figure in, as well as electricity, and propane for the cottage. If one does not take the monetary aspect into consideration, there’s this important fact: tourists need more than one night to optimize a stay here. Wellfleet is the perfect spot to anchor oneself and discover Cape Cod. Guests often take a trip down to Provincetown, and another, in the opposite direction, to Chatham. Folks who chose June this year have enjoyed amazing weather, deserted beaches, free parking at town beach parking lots until the 21st, no waiting in lines at restaurants for dinner, reasonable traffic on Route 6. Three nights provide a change of rhythm and time to relax. Guests leave Chez Sven feeling refreshed. As innkeepers, we would not have it any other way.

Fresh Food Available at the Orleans Farmers' Market

The Orleans Farmers' Market is a great place to shop for herbs and veggies. I stopped there today on the way home. Half a dozen gardeners had set up stands and were hawking, for the most part, heirloom tomato plants, all healthy and strong. Lots of interesting herbs were also available. I purchased a climbing nasturtium to shield the outdoor shower, since the one I planted does not seem to germinate, and a Mexican bush sage that will provide long purple spires in the fall. The ladies at the library love the bouquets I bring in and always ask, "What is this beautiful flower?" Honey can also be purchased. The farmers' market brochure advertises eggs, but I did not see any. Perhaps they were all sold? You can be sure all the leftover tomato plants will go into the ground and their fruit will be available Saturday mornings from late July through October 11. Open from 8 to noon, the market is located on Old Colony Way.

Guest Blogger: Nick Grabbe!

My brother, Nick Grabbe, is a reporter in Amherst. Seems to me, whenever he comes to visit, the least he can do is guest-blog. Don't you think? "Whenever I come to Wellfleet, I'm impressed at how my sister has transformed the house I've been coming to for 37 years. This time, the room I'd always known as a living room has become a kitchen/dining room, and the old kitchen and dining room have been reborn as a guest room. I can scarcely remember what it was like before. Even though it's been cloudy and rainy for my two-day visit, I've enjoyed hunkering down indoors and reading and talking to my sister and niece. And how many days in June can you go to Newcomb Hollow Beach and have it all to yourself? The rain was also good for the six tomato plants I placed in the garden, and maybe they'll still be there if I get to return in October. I've always enjoyed Wellfleet the most when it's not occupied by vacationers, when I can enjoy its beauty and seclusion without the traffic and noise. I used to think I wanted to retire and run a bed & breakfast, until my wife convinced me that I wasn't temperamentally suited to that kind of work, that I'd wind up insulting my guests like John Cleese on 'Fawlty Towers.' I admire my sister for turning my parents' home into an inn and marvel at how well she runs it."

"Ticks on Cape Cod"

I sometimes blog based on recent Internet searches that lead people to Wellfleet Chezsven Blog. The search, which has appeared the most frequently of late, is “ticks on Cape Cod.” As regular blog-readers and former guests know, I had Lyme Disease three years ago. I did not see the tick that bit me. The doctors had the darnedest time figuring out what was wrong. Since that experience, I have learned a lot about Lyme and ticks in general. Here are a few basic pointers for anyone who plans to vacation on Cape Cod this summer. Deer ticks can carry Lyme disease and/or bacterial infections, which you want to avoid at all costs. Ticks, carrying disease, exist in all but 13 of the United States. I advise guests that ticks are prevalent on Cape Cod, and have reached epidemic proportions on Martha’s Vineyard and Nantucket. These tiny creatures travel on deer, birds, mice, and other warm-blooded wild animals. They are out there, looking for a blood meal. It is best the meal not be you. One way to deter ticks is to use bug spray while outside. I also do a thorough tick check every night before bed. They say a tick has to be attached for up to 24 hours to regurgitate the spirochetes or bacteria into its victim, but who knows really? If you find a tick, you should remove it immediately. This year Outer Cape Health offers two pamphlets. The first contains general information. The second provides directions on how to send a tick to IGeneX, Inc., a laboratory in Palo Alto, in order to identify which diseases the tick may or may not carry. Each test costs $65. It takes from seven to ten business days to receive the results. The flyer suggests tick removal with tweezers. “Grasp the tick mouthparts close to the skin. Avoid squeezing the tick, which may spread infected body fluids. Pull the tick straight out. Do not twist. Do not attempt to burn the tick. Wash your hands with soap and water. Apply antiseptic to bite site." This month’s issue of The Cape Cod Voice contains an article about chronic Lyme and the problem that some local doctors are slow to identify Lyme disease. When in doubt, seek second and third opinions, which is what I did. Once the flu-like symptoms had passed, I felt total fatigue, which lasted for months. It is best to get the antibiotic into your system fast, as it is toxic to the spirochetes. If Lyme is diagnosed early, three weeks of treatment should suffice. My case was not diagnosed for two months, so an infectious-diseases doctor, who happened to be an old friend, advised six to eight weeks instead. After a Lyme specialist told me I was cured and I knew I was not completely, I consulted a doctor at Whole Health New England, who said we simply do not know because the spirochetes can hide in your cells. He gave me Transfer Factor Basics and an herb called Cat’s Claw. I do feel better now. This year the Massachusetts Health Department created a sign, which was handed out to local businesses. I display the sign in our kitchen and discuss Lyme disease prevention with every guest, warning them all to take precautions.

PJs Restaurant Draws Crowds

On busy weekends, the parking lot at PJs is always crowded, a sign of affordable food. The restaurant has been in the Reeves family for 38 years. Located on the corner of Cahoon Hollow Road and Route 6, an easy walk from Chez Sven, PJs used to be just another burger joint. When my kids were small, we always walked down for ice cream. Last year guests reported favorably on a lobster dinner from PJs, so I decided to check it out. Sven tells me the sandwiches are great, too. There's certainly an enormous selection of seafood dishes from which to choose. Guests can eat inside or out. Here a couple waits patiently for their order. A seafood dinner runs around $15. If you are looking for a quick meal, PJs is a good place to stop once you reach Wellfleet.

The Beach, At Last!

Sven and I got to the beach today for a brisk walk at LeCount Hollow. Our guests from England left with a sunburn. I showed them how to apply Noxzema in a paste for quick relief. They were enchanted with their stay in Wellfleet and plan to tell all their friends, a great way to spread the word about our bed and breakfast, don't you think?

Innkeepers Who Double As Bricklayers and Gardeners

First off, I would like to apologize to everyone who was hoping for a photo of Wellfleet on this beautiful day. Our guests had wonderful times at beaches, both ocean and bayside. Sven and I, however, are much too busy to go for a walk. I have been working on editing David Wright's book about the shellfishing industry in Wellfleet, as well as madly planting flowers, mostly impatiens. The garden is amazing with the peonies about to pop open. The irises stand tall, swaying in the breeze, beside the poppies. I am quite pleased with the Patriot hostas, which I transplanted in front of the windows of our new room. My garden looks so nice, in fact, that our friend Steve Durkee asked me to put some flowers in beside his new Studio, a request I could not refuse. He wanted to exchange the fabulous big painting in Liberty Coin Suite for my work. We had it on loan. Now, it will be ours for keeps. Thank you, Steve! All this blabbering about flowers has not left a minute to tell you what Sven has been up to. This week he decided to create a brick step at the door to the Green Room, pretty ambitious for someone who is about to turn 70. The step was finished today. Look how nice it is!!

Gas Price Rises in Wellfleet

With the good weather, it is possible to eat in the garden again. Sven rebuilt the patio under the vintage table. There have been sirens off and on all morning, not a good sign. Everyone expects the Route 6 traffic to be heavy this afternoon. I was out and about early today. The price at the pump passed four dollars nationwide. After listening to this news, I thought I would go check for myself. Sure enough, down at the Mobil station, which I always mention when giving directions to Chez Sven, the rates had all gone up overnight. I imagine the increase is not as bad as on Nantucket, but still the high price of energy is hurting us all ...

Wellfleet, Memorial Day Weekend, 2008

Lots going on this holiday weekend here in Wellfleet! There was excitement in the air in front of town hall where Wellfleet Gardeners are holding an annual plant sale. Wheelbarrows in hand, folks maneuvered from stand to stand, eager to pick out the healthiest plants. The sale started at 8:30 and ends at noon. Wellfleet Harbor Actors’ Theatre opened this week with its first play of the summer season, “Intimate Apparel.” Guests from Chez Sven took in the show last night and highly recommend it. This morning WHAT has become part of the Arts & Artisans Trail, hosting 20 local artists outside from noon to 6 pm. Trail signs were up all over Wellfleet. I featured the Arts & Artisans Trails guidebook in a blog a year ago. Crowds are expected for the duration of the long weekend. The Memorial Day rush was featured on the Boston news. Apparently the traffic is already backed up at the Sagamore Bridge, not surprising at all when you consider the great weather. Here in Wellfleet, the bike shop was open down on Route 6. What better way to see this beautiful town than by renting a bike for a spin along the back roads, fragrant with lilacs?

Spring Update

Extraordinary weather here in Wellfleet, folks. Blue skies. High puffy clouds. A slight breeze. Perfect weather for planting a summer garden. Not too hot, not too cold. Sven is outside reworking the brick pathway so that guests will no longer get their feet wet when it rains. After forty-some odd years, the bricks had sunken into the earth. It was time to pull them out and start over, giving me a perfect excuse to create a partial shade garden outside the new green room. The lilacs are in blossom now, too. Over at the cottage, a hanging basket of bright pink flowers awaits guests, as does the wisteria, dramatic in the way it swoops down from the roof. Yesterday I saw my first hummingbird of the year from the cottage windows, in search of nectar. The wisteria seemed inviting. Hummingbirds always make me catch my breath, so amazing are they to see hovering in air. Sven had a guest from Sweden yesterday. Today a Russian chat group recommended Chez Sven, so our Web site had numerous visitors with Russian connections. Memorial Day is early this year. We still have availability for Liberty Coin Suite. And, the weatherman is predicting sunshine ...

Full House!

On this rainy weekend, here at Chez Sven, we have a full house. Two sets of guests are from Germany, where it is vacation week. Strangely enough, they are returning home on the same plane to Munich! Unfortunately, the weather is not ideal for a holiday with kids. What does one do with children on Cape Cod in the rain? There are books to read, beaches to explore – with umbrellas! Our guests plan to go whale watching and will probably take in the Cape Cod Museum of Natural History in Brewster. Last night they ate at Mac’s Shack and were enthralled by the great atmosphere and scrumptious food.

Three-ring Circus & Weekend Special

This photo was taken last winter, when I still had the leisure to walk the beach. That time will return, I am sure, but for now, think of me as a three-ring circus. The hoops on my left hand are email reservations, laundry, and this blog. Around one ankle twirl the vegetable garden, the flower garden, and a general tidying up of the main house following renovation, still not done. In my right hand, I hold a pen, addressing envelopes for the guests who have reserved Seagull Cottage this summer. A bottle of green cleanser sticks out of my right hip pocket. The left holds pruning shears so I can pick a bouquet of Angelique tulips for the Green Room. On my head balances a basket of fresh eggs from the farm down on Route 6. All this, not to mention running a household, a relationship, and the promotion of this bed & breakfast. Whew! In spring, there is so much to do! Blog readers have shown much support recently, which I do appreciate. Thank you,thank you. In an effort to spread the word about our new green room, Chez Sven is offering a weekend special in May and June so returning guests can check out the results of our renovation: $130/night. Weekends still available include 5/30 & 31, 6/6 & 7;6/13 & 14.

Liberty Coin Suite Room Turns Blue

Some of the changes are up on the Web site, thanks to my son in California. The new photos of the Liberty Coin room and the General's Green Room have not yet been posted, however. They will be, later in the week. In the meantime, here is Sven, putting the finishing touches on the Liberty Coin room, now blue. I am glad to report that the Eldred Wheeler furniture company found an investor at the last minute so this pencil post bed will not be the last one their carpenters make after all. Curry Woodworking will continue the excellent line of classic furniture reproductions. The pencil post bed was a type of bed made in America from 1690 to 1800. Ours does not have a tender yet, but it will be coming. The tender is a frame top, like a canopy, only not curved. As time goes on, we hope to add other pieces of period furniture from Eldred Wheeler/Curry to our collection for the enjoyment of our bed & breakfast guests.

Chez Sven Opens New Green Room

This weekend Chez Sven celebrated a first: we had guests in our new Green Room. Vahram and James had heard Wellfleet was beautiful and wanted to check it out. They enjoyed their stay, and Sven and I enjoyed having them with us. Then, this afternoon a small family arrived for Seagull Cottage. It turns out one member of each couple works in the environmental field. The presence of all these young folks, amidst the spring flowers, reminded me why Sven and I chose this profession: one the rewards of innkeeping is all the lovely people we are privileged to meet!

Have Pillow, Will Travel

As the sun sets on another successful renovation, Sven and I look back at what has been accomplished and smile, grateful to the architect, and to our contractor Nate Cook and his team. They have done an amazing job. We have, too, when you come to think of it. We are still married, for one thing. Renovation is a notorious marriage-wrecker. For the past two months Sven and I have been working every day, right alongside the carpenters, and have done little else. Last winter we had the leisure to get out so I could take photos of Wellfleet, like the one above, taken from the bridge at the Herring River Dike. Had I moved my camera slightly to the right the photo would have included the object of much attention here in Wellfleet over the past few months: the so-called “Billboard House,” which has spoiled this spectacular view of the National Seashore for some thirty years. It was already controversial back then. The new owners have requested a permit to tear down the ugly modern structure and build a McMansion. The town and the Seashore are joining forces in opposition. Had I had any energy left, I would have attended the ZBA evening meetings. Instead, I was more intent on finding a place to lay my head at the end of a day of hard labor. The musical beds will continue a bit longer, with boxes piled up everywhere as we gradually move back into the main house. Two nights ago I slept in the cottage; last night, in the Green Room. Tonight I will sleep in the small bedroom of Liberty Coin Suite. Have pillow, will travel! …

A May Day in the Life

Grey skies today from my window remind me of everything there is to do before the rain arrives. I gulp a cup of coffee, check Matt Noyes’ forecast, and remove my things from Seagull Cottage since there are guests arriving this afternoon. Several emails await my attention, all booking in June. Off I go to Orleans, twenty miles down the road. I shop for veggies and another quart of paint, then swing by the cleaners where the salesman confronts me with bad news: the slipcover cannot be dry-cleaned. It cannot be washed either, in my opinion, so here is a problem Sven and I will have to solve later. At Snow’s I purchase a beautiful hanging plant, on sale at 15% off the regular price. Neither Stop & Shop nor the South Wellfleet General Store carries Buffalo yogurt this year, so I will have to search the Internet for another source of my favorite starter. I shop at the bakery and rush home. Boz, our carpenter, built one last shelf in the Green Room closet and is ready to leave by the time I arrive. He has brought us fresh eggs from his farm, which I will serve this weekend to the lucky folks who booked the Green Room for tomorrow at the introductory rate of $150/night. After a quick lunch, I help Sven clean the cottage. Exhausted, I lie down in the new Green Room for a nap while the rain pours down.

We Got Shells!

When a major renovation is undertaken, one discovers that everything else looks drab in comparison and needs some TLC, too. For this reason, our painting project is lasting longer than we expected. The Web site will soon be updated to reflect the changes. We are also working on the garden. The area around the northern wing of the house suffered much abuse over the past six months from sawdust, reshingling, and routine access for the carpenters who set up their tools outside. So, Sven and I decided to address this issue as well. We chose quohaug shells for the parking area because they are natural to Cape Cod, easy to apply, and inexpensive. What's more, they look nice. The shells arrived yesterday morning early. I was holding out for cobblestones but reality won me over. I must admit the change is an improvement. Everyone is happy and Sven gets to say, "I told you so." The shells seem particularly appropriate because this week I started copyediting a manuscript by a friend who has just researched and written a history of shellfishing in Wellfleet. This amazing book will be published over the summer and made available for sale at Oysterfest, to benefit the Wellfleet Historical Society. We still have some availability for Oysterfest, a fabulous street fair that celebrates the oyster. Oysterfest has become the high point of Wellfleet's tourist season and is not to be missed.

The Best Place to Stay in Wellfleet: Chez Sven!

At last we feel the end of our renovation project is drawing near. Sven and I had dinner at Moby Dick's this week. Owner Todd Berry told us he and Mignon have also been renovating their home over the winter. They too are out of patience, out of energy, and way over budget. With our first guests arriving for the General's Green Room this Saturday, we scurry to finish up last-minute details. The pantry is tiled. The new living room is painted. The table has been placed in the new country kitchen. We spruced up the Liberty Coin main room with a fresh coat of paint. Monday the radiator was installed in the Green Room. In the above photo, we see Boz, our carpenter, last fall, taking apart my mother's old kitchen. The room is a gorgeous space now. If I had the time, I would go and sit in there to absorb some of the peaceful atmosphere. But, of course, there are things to do, too numerous to mention. Sven is redirecting the brick path to the parking lot and has built a patio where we will place the vintage table for breakfast outside in summer. I must help him with this strenuous work. Oh, and the garden calls. My new plants should arrive this afternoon from Bluestone Perrenials. We are having a fabulous day here in Wellfleet with a slight breeze and bright blue skies, the color of Liberty Coin's walls. The forecast is for some rain, perfect for planting. Then, Sunday, the weather will improve again. The Green Room has lots of availability still since no one knows how wonderful it is ... Where's the best place to stay in Wellfleet? Why, definitely Chez Sven. Great food, great garden, great rooms. Y'awl, come on down!

Wellfleet-Long Pond-Swimming-Reviews

Internet searches are getting more and more specific. The above search intrigued me so much that I Googled it. I learned that the portable toilets at Long Pond are cleaned every day. I found an entry for Wellfleet Chezsven Blog, and an ad for a vacation rental: “Long Pond, a great fresh water swimming spot with a public beach, is within 500 …” I clicked through and discovered there are 186 properties listed on the vacation site, which means 186 families are renting their Wellfleet homes this summer from this site alone. This week’s New York Times reveals vacationers are waiting until the last minute for deals this year. But back to Long Pond Reviews. There were none, really, so I thought I would provide one. The water at the public beach is very shallow, great for toddlers. There is a raft, fun for elementary school kids. The beach is narrow. Folks tend to set up beach chairs on the grassy slope. At Chez Sven, I always warn guests with children, as soon as the weather heats up, NOT to swim in Long Pond. Although the town does do a regular control of bacteria, over the years I have seen too many people become sick after swimming in Long Pond to recommend it. Mayo Beach, on the harbor, is a much better bet for families with small children, as is Duck Harbor. This is the type of information only an innkeeper can provide ... For reports on the bacteria count at Wellfleet's beaches this coming summer, click here.

Blue Sky in Wellfleet ...

Blue sky? Not today. From the Liberty Coin Suite windows I see clouds beyond the budded maple branches. When I look up, however, Alaskan Blue meets the eye. Yesterday we decided to boldly go where the more timid innkeeper might hesitate. I picked up a gallon of Sherwin Williams Harmony, low-VOC, paint. Audrey Danforth applied it last night. The cheerful color will make the new pencil post bed and local art stand out. We have no guests this weekend due to the weather - showers and rain are in the forecast. As soon as the sun returns, folks will flock back out to Cape Cod. There's nothing like a Wellfleet beach on a sunny day...

Wellfleet Dream Homes for Feathered Friends

Our songbirds can now live in style thanks to West Waters of Codder’s House down on Route 6, here in Wellfleet. His Ron Buck Artist Series birdhouses have all been built to Audubon standards. The houses are vented top and bottom. They have clean-out traps and are adorned with vintage hardware. Each one is totally unique. Best of all, West and Ron have thought to use recycled cedar and bio-safe colors. While in West’s shop choosing a new home for your feathered friends, check out the great selection of quality antiques. The birdhouses cost from $29 to $38 and can even be viewed online prior to vacation.

Along the Way ...

Every once and a while we recommend stops along the way to Wellfleet. An easy off, easy on from Route 6 is Hunan Gourmet, a Chinese restaurant located in a small shopping center at Exit 12 in Orleans. The buffet features a wide variety of tasty dishes, and you can eat your fill for only $12. What Sven and I especially like is the fast service. When hunger pangs hit and Wellfleet is still twenty miles away, Hunan Gourmet is a great place for dinner.

Why Filter Water?

Our renovation is almost complete. We are waiting for the tile to be installed in the pantry, so the plumber can hook up the water faucet with its PUR filters. Here is the fancy new faucet in the kitchen sink before the trim went in. I think about water a lot these days. While researching Lyme Disease, I read that high levels of DEET have been found in Chicago’s drinking water. This spring we had a report of chemicals from medicine seeping into ground water in various cities across the country. In the sixties, Tom Lehrer sang, “Just one thing of which we must beware – don’t drink the water and don’t breath the air.” It seemed like a joke back then. Now the lyrics from ”Pollution” don’t seem so funny. Indeed, they feel almost prophetic. Watch what you put in your mouth. Plastic bottles, lead toys, H2O that has not been filtered … This week brought a brief report on the news stating the current administration has increased the number of steps required to identify contaminants in water. This is scary because the long process discourages their identification …