Wellfleet = Shelly’s "Happy Place"

Above, healing stones, painted by Washington Ledesma. They are hollow, and, when you shake them, something inside jiggles, as with Mexican jumping beans. I mentioned this artist in the post about Oysterfest 2009. I got a nice note from a new reader in New York who describes Oysterfest on his own blog and actually won this year’s spelling bee. (Congratulations, Malcolm!) You’d be surprised how many people Google “Wellfleet blog,” often without knowing they will find … ME!!!!. I try to stay informed on the origin of new visitors. Yesterday, for instance, I noticed a link with which I was not familiar, so I clicked through. Shelly Daly makes jewelry in Baltimore and has a deep love for Wellfleet, too. Shelly even had linked to my post about Oysterfest, calling this blog “Wellfleet Today.” I thought about it and decided that was a great title, so note the change above. Shelly’s recent post about the Cape expresses so well the way non-residents feel about this place.

Wellfleet has special meaning for many people, which is why non-residents try to make it back for Oysterfest, Thanksgiving, and Christmas. Who knows? In the future, the town may have a festival that attracts visitors in the spring as well. If and when that happens, I will be here (I hope!) to share impressions.

I was never a non-resident but spent twenty-seven years as a summer visitor before moving from Paris to care for my elderly parents in 1997. I started writing this blog in January 2006. Chezsven Blog started off with descriptions of walks with Sven but soon its scope expanded to cover life as a green innkeeper in Wellfleet. At first I posted twice a week. Since June, I have blogged every day. The thing about blogging is you really need to do it every day to maintain credibility and not disappoint readers. Some people see any type of writing as a chore. What could be worse that feeling OBLIGED to write a blog? For writers, not a problem. What we do best is write. I often feel as if blogging is exercise for the mind. (Below, an unusual sight: P-town Pedicars on Main Street in downtown Wellfleet.)

Oysterfest 2009 Draws Crowds Despite Weather

There were threatening clouds but no rain, and the spirit of Oysterfest seemed alive and well when Sven and I hiked into town Saturday afternoon. I’m afraid Sunday may be a different story … People did come out from Boston but perhaps not in throngs as in previous years, which is understandable, considering the forecast and a longer-than-usual delay at the Sagamore Bridge, under repair. If the merchants noticed, they did not show it, busy hawking wares to visitors from other Cape towns, like Chatham, Brewster, and Provincetown. There were long lines under the town hall parking lot tent, at food stands manned by crews from Wicked Oyster, Moby Dick, and other local restaurants, which proved everyone had brought an appetite. Sven purchased paella and lobster roll. I noticed fewer paintings and more crafts, less clothing and a greater turn-out by non-profits like Cape Cool and Mass Audubon, which had a stand describing oyster reefs (for full explanation see this article in yesterday’s Cape Cod Times). Wellfleet’s fleet of school buses again ferried partygoers from the beach parking lots, a system that kept traffic congestion to a minimum. The Methodist and Congregational churches offered $10 parking for early birds, and the lots were full. Sven enjoyed watching wood carvers at work. My favorite stand was manned by Washington Ledesma from Uruguay, now creating art on Martha’s Vineyard, who had no trouble selling his colorful pottery, full of whimsy. We also stopped in to say hello to Maroussia Chavchavadze and admire woven textiles from the Republic of Georgia, on sale to benefit American Friends of Georgia. Nearby, Karoo Kafé, a vegetarian eatery in Provincetown, churned out falafel sandwiches and hot, spicy South African soup. At another busy stand, a young lady painted faces. An industrious Wellfleet woman sold Lil Codders T-shirts for wee ones. The most happening place for kids was surely the Preservation Hall lawn where The Elbows had parents and children alike dancing to the beat. We paused to sing along to popular tunes like “You Are My Sunshine.” The sunshine, itself, did not appear except once or twice but that did not dampen spirits. And the oysters? They were everywhere: on jewelry, T-shirts, hoodies, hats, books, chocolate – yes, Jade sold her delicious chocolate oysters, described here – paintings, photos, etc.. Partygoers scoffed down a plate of sweet Wellfleet oysters, on the half shell, faster than it takes to explain the various meanings of spat and describe all the resourceful ways S.P.A.T. uses the funds raised during the festival to encourage young Cape Codders to practice aquaculture: grants and scholarships. All those oyster shells? They are recycled. Read about it here.

The Joy of Driving down Long Pond Road

I was walking along Long Pond Road the other day, minding my own business, and, to my surprise, a rental car slowed to a crawl, then stopped. The driver lowered the window and leaned out. His neatly parted hair was streaked with gray. An elderly woman sat in the seat beside him, eyes closed tight, like a small child determined not to obey a parent. I could not tell whether she was his wife, or his mother. Lots of tourists get lost in Wellfleet, so I expected the man to ask directions but he didn’t.

“Can I tell you a secret?” the man asked, and a glint came into his eye.

I nodded, wondering what would follow.

“I don’t know when I have driven down such a tranquil road as this one,” he said with obvious relief at being able to share this conclusion with someone, even if that someone was a total stranger.

There was such delight in his voice, an exuberance that comes with the discovery of a new place, a place of such beauty that it knocks your socks off. Here was someone who had reached middle age without experiencing the deep peace Wellfleet inspires. He was reacting to the rolling landscape, bathed in bright sunshine, and the old Indian trail, created at a time when efficiency did not matter, now paved and called "Long Pond Road." It follows the contours of the land, putting the observer in direct touch with nature.

I simply nodded and offered a smile. I could have suggested a side trip to Dyer Pond but didn’t. His joy at driving Lond Pond Road reverberated through the silence. That was enough.

Soggy Forecast for Oysterfest 2009

Every day this week I’ve peeked at the forecast and moaned. Oysterfest happens this weekend, in case you have been hiding out in Upper Mongolia and hadn’t heard. So far the weather looks dismal here on Cape Cod. I can already hear heavy rain pounding at the window. According to NOAA, 100% chance of rain on Friday; Saturday, 30%; Sunday 90%. NECN has the raindrops icon up for each of the three days. The wind chill today is in the 30s. I feel so sorry for all the organizers and participants, who will still show up tomorrow no matter what, not to mention the shellfishermen, out gathering last-minute oysters in less than perfect weather. For this type of festival, there can be no rain dates, because many of the shops and restaurants shut down on Monday for the winter. 20,000 visitors usually troop out from Boston and points west/south/north. Tourists, non-residents, and residents alike all gather for a huge party on Main Street. This year drivers also have to fight traffic to get across the Sagamore Bridge, under repair. Oy!

And yet Wellfleet's ninth annual Oysterfest does sound amazing, billed as “hometown flavor, bigtime fun.” Check out the calendar on the Oysterfest site and sign up now for limited enrollment events. All the cooking demos seem to have space. Bob Prescott of Mass Audubon will lead a group across an oyster reef at sunset on Saturday. And, of course, the must-do activity in my mind is “Taste the Terroir” at the Masonic Hall, where David Wright, author of The Famous Beds of Wellfleet, which I edited, will speak. There also seem to be more fun activities for children scheduled this year, including a spelling bee at the library from 4 to 6 on Saturday, and several performances by The Elbows at Preservation Hall.

If you do come, be sure to pick up a Wellfleet Visitor Survey. They will be handed out at the WHAT booth, as well as at the Chamber of Commerce stand. Your answers will help our new tourism office figure out how to promote our lovely town in the off-season.

Arm yourself with patience and rain boots. Enjoy the oysters! Bring an umbrella!

Thoughts on Climate Change

Today is Blog Action Day and the focus this year is on climate change, something that should concern us all. Hundreds of thousands of bloggers all over the world, reaching millions of readers, are asking their readers to drop what they are doing and give some thought to this timely topic.

From Sandy: “Let’s start with a local look at how climate affects Wellfleet where I run a bed & breakfast. We have a seasonal economy on Cape Cod. If the weather does not cooperate, the tourism industry suffers. Wellfleet has had wonderful summer weather for as long as I can remember, predicable sunny skies, warm temperatures during the day, cool at night. Not any more. During the summer of 2009, the weather became finicky. June, cold and rainy. July, mediocre. August, hot and extremely humid, with none of the usual relief at night. A year ago, in December, we experienced a freak, half-hour storm that knocked down trees, as might a bad hurricane. This bizarre weather pattern reminded me of a similar storm a few years back in the Parc de Versailles, near where I used to live, widely reported by the media, felling oaks that had resisted wind for over 100 years. To me, it seems as if we need to listen to what nature is yelling loud and clear. Something is out of whack. Enter the scientists, silenced during the reign of George W. Bush. Thank goodness the USA has a new administration and is no longer in denial. Now is the time to put all the brainpower possible into reducing our carbon imprint in an effort to slow climate change.”

From Sven: “There’s drought in South Africa and Somalia. It’s obvious the climate is changing. Most people in the world believe this change is due to global warming. Some say global warming is a part of a cycle that has always existed. The majority of scientists, on the other hand, believe that climate change and global warming are related, that global warming has to do with the level of CO2, which comes from energy policy, with gas-guzzling cars, coal plants, etc. A major producer of CO2 is the developing world. The USA is the worst polluter. The second worst is China. Fortunately, China is at the forefront of nations developing wind and solar alternatives to oil.”

From Cape Cool: “We are organizing ‘Walk with me, Henry.’ On October 24, a day of international climate actions, join us to walk the coast Thoreau walked to demonstrate our concern about climate change and support global efforts to minimize human impact on climate and return to safer atmospheric levels of CO2 – our goal is 350 parts per million.”

Using Leftover Soap Judiciously to “Clean the World”

Guests at hotels, inns, and bed & breakfasts rarely use up the soap provided in each individual room. Some green B&Bs only offer bars of soap on demand, like Harding House in Cambridge, MA, which hopes its guests prefer liquid soap in a dispenser. Here at Chez Sven, we offer both. Each bathtub gets a small slice of an Alaffia spearmint/lavender log, while a tall bottle of Trillium Organics liquid soap is available at the sink. Leftover bars go into a bag, which my ingenious and frugal brother transforms into usable cakes of soap for his family. What do other B&Bs, inns, and hotels do with all their leftover soap? Two young men in Florida have come up with an excellent solution that stops waste and helps the world. They collect used soap, transform it, and distribute the new purified product to people in countries where soap is a rarity. Read all about how you can contribute to this worthwhile non-profit here.

On Food … Gourmet Food … Coming Soon to Wellfleet!

“From Sven’s lyrical Swedish welcome to Sandy’s encouraging directions to explore local ponds, Chez Sven has made us feel chez nous,” wrote Ann in the guestbook before heading out to affront traffic, which will only get worse by next weekend, unfortunately. (Read about the outrage and future bridge closings here.) Ann forgot to mention the terrific organic raspberries, last of the season, in my fruit salad, or the fact that she and her husband left with the visiting cards of our other main house guests, who provided pleasant company during breakfast. Such enthusiasm really makes it all worthwhile. One former guest even wrote about Chez Sven on her Mayflower Avenue Blog (Thanks, Shannon!).

While on the subject of food, Sven and I stopped in to check progress at the French bistro (see original report here) yesterday afternoon on the way back from LeCount Hollow. I chatted in French with Boris Villatte, who wore a grin as wide as the Garonne since his bread-making equipment had just arrived. We were able to witness two men carrying in heavy stainless steel slabs. Counters, perhaps? The oven already stood in the right-hand corner, where it will stay and be visible to customers. I asked Boris whether the bakery would really be open all winter and he confirmed this amazing fact. He and Philippe Rispoli are now aiming for a mid-November "ouverture" for PB Boulangerie Bistro.

Here's a peek at the oven. It was the first time Sven and I had ventured inside the finished restaurant. The architect used original ideas, which did wonders with the space. You can see white tiles up on the back wall, where presumably the kitchen will be. I closed my eyes and could imagine elegant diners, background chatter in French, and, of course, the aroma of fresh baked bread.

Last week I saw Julie & Julia with my daughters and could so identify. I had been an American in France, like Julia. During my first year as a housewife, I used The French Chef and tried every recipe, like Julie – only she worked her way through Mastering the Art of French Cooking, a more challenging book. There are not many recipes for breakfast – brioche, croissant, poached eggs. Know why? French bread! It is omnipresent in France, available on every corner in most neighborhoods. If someone had told me thirty years ago that Wellfleet would have a French bakery and bistro by 2010, I would have thought it a joke. Well, miracles do happen … From PB’s new Web site, I learned the 60-seat restaurant will offer breakfast, lunch, and dinner. French pastry, as well as bread, will be sold in the boulangerie. Even cooking lessons are planned. Whoopee! Fans of France, if you have not yet been tempted by a trip to the Outer Cape, now there’s really no excuse. And, Chez Sven will be accepting reservations for the 2010 season shortly ….

Fall Update on Ticks and Lyme Disease on Cape Cod

While out walking in the glorious pine and oak forest that dominates the National Seashore, it’s hard to make oneself remember that this landscape is prime habitat for deer ticks carrying Lyme and other infectious diseases. According to a Cape Cod Times article by Cynthia McCormick, tick-bourne diseases are getting more attention now that the victims live in western Massachusetts and Worcester, as well as Cape Cod & the Islands, which, I suppose, is a good thing. Anyone who has read this blog for a while already knows I had Lyme three years ago and that it knocked me out. I lost all energy for three months. Thanks to a doctor-friend, I was able to obtain six to eight weeks of antibiotics, “since there had been a delay in my diagnosis” rather than the three-week course Wellfleet doctors proposed. I also had the good fortune of consulting an alternative medicine doctor, afterward, who gave follow-up herbs (Cat’s Claw) and something called “Transfer Factor Basics.” I was able to avoid chronic Lyme (touch wood!) for now. Everyone is not so lucky. A friend in town suffers periodic bouts of fatigue. Those nasty spirochetes must be hiding out in his cells, undetected and free to turn a vibrant man into an invalid at will. While I was taking the antibiotics, I made myself walk a short distance every day, visualizing the meds scattering through my body, on the prowl for renegade spirochetes and zapping them, one after the other. Longer-term treatment for Lyme is controversial, and patients suffer while doctors bicker about what works. You can guess which side the insurance companies are on! This seems to be the problem with Lyme research: specialists who disagree. Diagnosis is tough. I had no bull's eye rash, and my first Lyme test was negative. Late diagnosis is problematic because early intake of Doxycycline is key to stopping the spirochetes.

Ticks frequent shady terrain with leaf cover. Since it takes them a while to sniff out a potential victim, my theory is to keep moving, not pause and rest on a log, for instance, and to always wear bug spray. Ticks seem to advance more slowly when the weather turns colder, but adult ticks persist as a threat until frost. I had the oak tree by the cottage cut down, since mice feed on acorns, so we substantially reduced the local field mouse population. Ticks also travel on birds, but there is no way Sven is giving up his feeder. In the woods, it is practically impossible to reduce habitat since the forest has a bed of leaf mold. I always warn guests about ticks. They are out there, lurking, in search of their next blood meal. If a tick manages to attach itself, remove immediately, destroy, wash hands. It is believed that Lyme is transmitted only after a tick has been sucking blood for 24-36 hours. Read about my May encounter with a tick and a nifty gadget for tick removal here.

The situation on the Outer Cape isn't as dire as Nantucket and Martha's Vineyard, although you never find this information in travel brochures. I have one friend from Nantucket who caught Lyme three times! She now lives in Wellfleet, Lyme-free but ever conscious of the risk of re-infection.

From the Cape Cod Times article, “One bill before a state legislative panel would create a special commission to study Lyme disease. Another would protect doctors who treat Lyme by prescribing antibiotics beyond the single 28-day course recommended by the CDC.” I will try to find out more details and report back. President Bush had Lyme disease and there was no rush to fund research for a cure. What will it take for Lyme disease to get the attention it deserves? Have you had Lyme? Do you know anyone with chronic Lyme?

Bird Watchers, Bird News, and a Bird Story

Lots of birds here this fall. Sometimes hundreds of them swoop down from the sky, chattering and milling about on the lawn. I've noticed how hard it is to photograph a flock of birds. By the time my camera is ready, they have already flown away. We bought a birdhouse this week at Bayberry Garden and hung it outside the Green Room. In no time, two chickadees and a wren were checking out possible winter quarters. The temperature has dropped and many other birds are flying south, an annual migration that attracts birdwatchers from all over the east coast. Some birds stop here for a bit of R&R, choosing Chatham’s Monomoy National Wildlife Refuge or the Wellfleet Bay Wildlife Sanctuary, where humans admire the visitors for hours through binoculars, volunteers count sightings (call 781 259 8805 to hear the latest tallies), and Cape & Islands Radio even has a bird specialist who fields questions from listeners.

During one of his recent radio shows, E. Vernon Laux debated whether birds are intelligent. (That’s a no-brainer. As soon as we return from the Birdwatchers’ General Store in Orleans with an enormous bag of safflower seeds, Sven bangs the bird feeder to indicate it’s been filled, and our chickadees tell all friends and family before hightailing it to the cottage deck.) Bird News is broadcast Wednesday at 8:35 and Friday at 4:30. I heard Laux the other day, on the car radio, describing rare birds sighted in the area. He mentioned one poor fellow from South America, definitely lost, and a fork-tailed flycatcher whose photo you can find here.

Vernon Laux always signs off, “Keep your eyes to the sky!” Well, that’s precisely what Sven was doing in Orleans during our walk while waiting for the welder to fix our muffler. I had pointed out a flock of black birds in a large oak tree. Sven kept his eyes to the sky, put one foot in a rut, and down he went. (The moral to the story is “Keep your eyes to the sky” only works if you are NOT in motion on an old sidewalk.)

My husband has a special affinity for birds, which is perhaps why he feeds them with such dedication. His ornithological tendencies probably date from childhood, when he raised a baby starling named Hjalmar (pronounce that "Yal-mar").

Here’s Sven to tell all about it: “I fed Hjalmar sunflower seeds, letting it out of its cage to play. Hjalmar grew up fast. I watched its first attempts to fly with amusement that summer of 1949. Totally tame, Hjalmar never strayed far from the yard, following me when I went swimming, bicycling, or walking. The bird must have thought I was its mother.

In the fall, Hjalmar grew restless. Flocks of birds would pause in nearby birch trees. Hjalmar flew up to visit them. One cold day, he joined one of the flocks flying south. I waved goodbye, thinking I’d never see my pet bird again.

In June 1951, while mowing the lawn, I was approached by a big starling who wouldn’t budge. At first I found its behavior strange. Then I realized the bird was my old friend who had returned to say hello. I cradled Hjalmar in my hands. The bird jumped onto my shoulder. Then it flew to a nest where it spent the summer, raising its young.

From time to time, Hjalmar would come into the yard to visit. When fall came, the bird flew down to say goodbye. Hjalmar left and never returned, although its descendents probably still live in those Swedish woods.”

More Bits & Pieces

A land court has ruled that construction on the 5,700 square foot Blasch house, in the National Seashore park, can continue and that the structure does not need to be taken down. While some folks – the Blasches and lawyer Ben Zehnder – must be getting out the champagne, many regular folks in Wellfleet are disappointed by this decision. Read all about it in Marilyn Miller’s excellent Provincetown Banner report.

I have been following the Environmental Working Group for several years. Their work is most impressive. Now EWG’s president Ken Cook has been nominated by Huffington Post as the “Ultimate Green Game Changer.” You can contribute to greening the world by going here to read the profiles of the ten chosen ones and vote. That HuffPost conducts such a poll is extraordinary in itself. Let’s amaze the editors with our response!

This weekend wellness and green alternatives are celebrated in Hyannis at the Wellness and Health Expo. I went two years ago when the event was in Eastham and really enjoyed it.

Finally, the Truro Center for the Arts at Castle Hill is pleased to announce a show featuring the work of eight artists who traveled to Italy with Castle Hill last Spring and painted in Ravelo, Positano, Pontone, Amalfi and Terrevechia. Eight artists painted under the tutelage of local artist Gail Browne. The artists participating in the show are: Gail Browne, Dennis Allee, Marjorie Black, Catherine Haynes, Cherie Mittenthal, Bill Papaleo, Phyllis Schimel and Julia Salinger.

The Provincetown Street Scene in Fall

Summer trips to the tip of Cape Cod are out of the question for local innkeepers. Fight traffic, find a parking space, jostle with strangers for sidewalk space? Definitely too much of a struggle. Since we had a rare day off this week, Sven and I drove down to P-town. In August, one of our guests commented, “Provincetown is weird, but fun.” Perfect description. The town could also be called vibrant, Coney-Island-esque, and a must-see for visitors to the region, jaded or not. It may be the off-season, but the streets, shops, restaurants and galleries are still busy.

On Tuesday, the center of P-town was crowded with overweight bodies, jaywalking, slurping ice cream cones, day-trippers for the most part, I surmised, who had arrived by ferry that morning. But we soon realized lots of tourists had also come by car. Rather than wait in line for a parking space on the pier, we drove to the Pilgrim Monument lot, up on a hill, which turned out to be almost empty.

Our first stop was the Portuguese bakery where Sven had Espresso and the lemon custard pastry we enjoyed in Lisbon on a favorite trip fifteen years ago. The waitresses did not smile and had that dreary, end-of-season, “wish-I-were-somewhere-else” look in their eyes. Back outside, I was struck by the sunshine, brighter than in Wellfleet, due to the close proximity of two bodies of water: the ocean and Cape Cod Bay. Commercial Street actually borders the harbor, so the air has a noticeable tang of salt to it. Since our last visit, many of the shops had been spruced up with fresh coats of glossy paint in gaudy colors: purple, pink, blue. We entered one store with household items on sale. The shopkeeper, glued to his computer screen, seemed to have forgotten the mantra, “The client is king.” Neither doormat, nor rag-rug did we buy, although tempted by the 30% discount.

“I know how they must feel by October,” I whispered to Sven on the way out. “But still, a little smile would help business.”

He nodded, having noticed what a difference attitude can make to our own guests, who have been writing raves in our main house guest-book of late. We located Sven’s favorite place, Marine Surplus, a must-see entry on everyone’s Provincetown agenda. Barrels of funky clothes gather dust beside Halloween costumes, surplus china, and nautical gear.

“Where should I meet you, in twenty minutes?” Sven asked.

“Twenty minutes!” I squealed. “No, five. Ten?”

Provincetown Town Hall is still undergoing renovation, and I admired the fresh coat of light green paint and elegant off-white trim. Pedestrians were resting on benches out front, listening to a street musician play the guitar. A few couples passed holding hands since it was Women’s Week, but mostly the sidewalks were full of tourists, gawking at unusual objects in shop windows, like a pint-size I-Visited-Provincetown-With-My-Two-Moms t-shirt. I also saw many Provincetown natives, striding purposely to a specific destination. We backtracked through a narrow alleyway lined with guesthouses and clubs like Grand Central Café or A-House, one of the oldest pubs in the country. (For ambiance, click here.) On Bradford, a grouping of Barbies and Kens lounged by a makeshift pool. Sven commented that the Barbies were in pairs, as were the Kens, someone’s clin d’oeuil (wink,wink, nudge, nudge) at life in Provincetown.

On our way home, we stopped at Ruthie’s Boutique. We both missed the little old lady with the humungeous personality, gone almost a dozen years now. The thrift shop was neater, but less whimsical than in the old days, when Ruthie sat at the controls, riding shotgun. Its volunteer staffer also seemed weary. This has definitely been a long season. Thank goodness it’s almost over …

Sea Change Reported in Seventh Generation Newsletter

Check out the Seventh Generation Newsletter and especially two articles, including updated information on the new attitude in Washington towards the regulation of toxic chemicals. (This article contains reference to a Web site I did not know about. Please visit and send a letter to Congress here. The letter begins, "Please support legislation that will soon be introduced to reform and modernize the nation’s law that is failing to protect my family from dangerous toxic chemicals ...") Also in this newsletter, an article about links between women’s health and the environment.

None of this news has been reported on television, as far as I can tell. I watch NECN every morning and keep hoping their excellent anchors will do a health segment that will inform viewers of the probable link between toxic chemicals and breast cancer, or about water pollution, but so far that has not happened. (How about a profile of Seventh Generation's Jeff Hollender of New Hampshire or an interview with him on this timely subject?) While Wellfleet Chezsven is a blog about living on Cape Cod, water quality and reform of legislation on toxic chemicals is relevant to us all. The sea change happening now may make a difference in our local situation with NStar wanting to spray at least four herbicides beneath the power lines to clear brush.

Mac’s Shack Still Packs a Wallop

We went to Mac’s Shack for dinner Sunday in honor of my mom, who loved dining at the former Lobster Hutt, especially once her grandson became its manager in the early ‘90s. We have many happy memories of Lobster Hutt, as do numerous other longtime visitors to Wellfleet. Mac's Shack offers a more sophisticated menu and great sushi. "The Shack" became trendy after a glowing review in the New York Times two summers ago. Sven and I were greeted outside by Mac Hay, back from a short vacation in Bermuda.

Pleased to see a list of local specials, I chose Eastham Mussels and Nantucket Scallops. Sven, feeling carnivorous, requested steak. The restaurant, which closes October 18, was half full, surely a decent turnout for a Sunday night in October. Behind the sushi bar, the sushi chef created meticulous marvels. Mac’s wife Tracy sat at a table near the door with their two daughters, both busy coloring a special Mac’s Shack drawing. Later I saw other children using crayons, too, while awaiting dinner, an option parents must appreciate.

Our meal was, in a word, YUMMY. Sven’s French fries had a touch of garlic to them, and I admit to filching more than one, although I never, ever eat French fries usually, that’s how good they were. His serving of steak was copious, so he asked for a doggy bag. The waitress brought a square white box.

“Is it cardboard?” I asked Mac, who had wandered over to our table.

“Bamboo, totally biodegradable. We’ve been asking for these things for ten years. Costs twice as much, but worth it.”

I gave him the thumbs up. Our food was excellent; the waitress’s smile, genuine. For dessert, we splurged on crème brulée. How decadent was that!

What’s for Breakfast? Choice!

At registration, I always ask main-house guests to name a favorite breakfast. This catches most people off-guard. Everyone has a favorite, but somehow innkeepers do not usually request personal preferences along with the guest’s cell number and address …

Our most recent guests tell me they would be happy with the “house special.” In the morning, their seven-year-old son stands, arms akimbo, gazing over my spread of homemade organic granola, yogurt, fresh fruit salad and banana bread in obvious distress. Whatever he was expecting isn’t on the table.

“Is that all there is to eat?” Gustav asks in a plaintive voice, glancing hopefully around the kitchen.

“What do you like for breakfast?”

“Pan-cakes!”

He has pronounced the word with a touch of reverence, as an older child might identify a coveted video game. Hmmm. This young man obviously has breakfast preferences his parents did not mention.

The following day I make his favorite breakfast. Upon departure, he thanks me for the pancakes. The parents apologize for his having been so frank, but that’s what I especially love about children. They do not hold back until society imposes manners.

Choice is high on my agenda for other aspects of life as well.

I have a choice on how to oppose herbicidal spraying under the power lines, what is the best way to use my energy against it, and I am still pondering this choice. It is quite clear to me that NStar would not choose toxic chemicals if its executives lived here. So, I reject the suggestion from the Board of Health member who urged working together to solve the problem. I don’t believe NStar wants to work together, or will deviate from its original plan unless obliged to do so. Let’s hope this assessment is wrong.

I got an email this morning from Sue Phelan, at Green Cape, with the caption, “Is NStar reading the news?” The link she sent led to an article with wise words from Professor Landrigan, of Mount Sinai School of Medicine, who warns children are more susceptible to adverse influences in the environment than adults. (Children’s Diseases Linked to Chemicals On the Rise, Professor Says.) NStar execs could also read an article at CNN.com about how the number of children with autism is higher than previously thought and wonder whether environmental factors might play a role. Or, they could simply open the Cape Cod Times to learn a chemical solvent in the drinking water of eight Cape towns has been linked to increased risk of birth defects. The solvent dates from the 1960s. Where’s the outrage?

It’s Breast Cancer Awareness Month, according to the Provincetown Banner. After that headline caught my eye, I noticed a poll: “Should towns prohibit pesticide use on Cape Cod?” (Vote here.) When I voted, the results popped up: 48% YES, 52% NO. Hel-lo? Barnstable County has such a high incidence of breast cancer that Silent Spring is actively trying to figure out why. I would not be surprised if the widespread spraying of DDT on cranberry bogs did not have an influence. Now, NStar wants to spray five herbicides, including Accord, a known carcinogen, all of which will enter our sole source aquifer. “Should towns prohibit pesticide use on Cape Cod?” Duh, yes!! If we have a choice, let’s CHOOSE an alternate method of "pest" control. For the brush, how about goats? If goats have worked in Washington, California, and New Hampshire, why not in Massachusetts?

Update: Today's Cape Cod Times indicates the Wellfleet Selectmen are hard at work, looking for alternatives, which is great news. Check out the article here.

The View from a Cabin on Great Pond

The clouds cleared towards the end of the day and walking to Dyer Pond seemed like a good idea, so off Sven and I went through the woods. Mushrooms poked their heads through the dead pine needles along the path, activated by Saturday’s rain. We encountered bike riders, pedestrians, and shellfisherwoman Barbara Austin, out with a friend, on horseback. Sven, of course, paused to chat. Dyer Pond was quiet and deserted, greener than in my memory. Last week we saw a very large puddle in the middle of the path, with a resident frog. The frog was still visible, frozen in the hope we had not noticed him. (What does it mean when a frog feels safer in a puddle, than in a pond?) The foliage beside the one house, on the northern rim of Dyer, had begun to turn, but the colors were not as vibrant as other years. We continued on to Great Pond where a low, dense cloud indicated mist at the "backshore," as is often the case in fall. The cloud, which hovered over Northeast Pond, dipped down, from time to time throwing wisps of mist at the treetops along the far shore. To the right, we could see a lone figure standing on the public beach.

There’s a cabin on our side of the pond, with an outhouse, and Sven called me up to the deck because changes had been made since our last visit. “It’s interesting how good taste can transform such a small space,” he said, pointing at the furniture, painted light blue, his favorite color.

We were trespassing, it’s true, but I doubt the owner would mind our brief visit to admire how he had fixed up his summer residence. I peered through the window and had to agree with my husband. A double bed, a braided rug, a simple bunk bed, all the color of the sky. The trim and chairs had also received a coat of light blue paint. On the mantelpiece, someone had placed a few pieces of blue porcelain.

Minimalist, but homey, the interior design was evidence perhaps that the property had changed hands since I took this photo two summers ago. Where was the owner today? New York? Boston? Even further away, dreaming of Wellfleet? A canopy of low trees sheltered the wide deck with its perfect view of Great Pond, a deck ideal for meditation on what would have been my mother’s 100th birthday.

Bits & Pieces

Sven and I got in a walk at LeCount Hollow Friday, where the calm sea was translucent blue-green, typical for this time of year. Not many cars in the parking lot. We saw several fishermen and a couple hikers. On the way home, we stopped at Wellfleet's future French bistro to check if the bakery had opened. We spoke to builder Andrew Parkington who told us imported kitchen equipment has only just cleared customs in Los Angeles. This delay pushes the opening date back until after Oysterfest, perhaps the first week of November.

Oysterfest is only two weeks away. Check the Web site often if you want to sign up for one of the space-limited activities, like harvesting oysters. Be sure to take your children to hear the Elbows, and don’t miss Maroussia Chavchavadze’s stall with colorful woven goods to benefit American Friends of Georgia, or non-resident Sarah James’s watercolors featuring – what else? – oysters!

My mother used to enjoy Denya Levine’s accordion playing and called Stephen Russell “one of handsomest men I have ever met,” which always made Steven blush, if she happened to say this in his presence, which she often did in her old age. Therefore, it seems fitting that Denya will be performing with Steven today at the Flying Fish, on what would have been my mother’s 100th birthday. Here’s a copy of the announcement Denya sent: “Hi there, friends and relations. We're having a fall fling at the Flying Fish: Singing session, hosted by Stephen Russell and myself, Sunday, October 4, 7:30 pm. Come early and have dinner or have some luscious dessert or a drink. If you like, bring a song to share, an instrument...We like songs with a hearty chorus we can all sing, something traditional or old or funny or???”

Finally, since it is Fall for the Arts weekend, we went down to see which galleries were open. Martha, the manager at Left Bank, was doing a rousing business in the back room while we admired recent paintings by Jim Holland. At Harmon Gallery, we chatted with Vincent Amicosante and checked out some of his recent paintings, as well as images of Hamburg by Cynthia Guild. The work of both artists had caught Sven’s eye earlier in the day. Let me share with you the art I fell for this weekend: one of our favorite modern artists, David Hockney, apparently is creating with his Brushes App on iPhone, and the images are amazing ...

Thanks, Readers!

I hope sunflowers, courtesy of Jim Rose, may brighten this gray day for those of you in New England. Twenty people now follow Wellfleet Chezsven Blog. It has twice that many daily returning readers, and 150 to 200 views per day. Whoopie! Thank you to everyone who tunes in, be it during work break, lunchtime, before breakfast or at bedtime. I’m glad you’re interested in reading about life in Wellfleet, and delighted many of you are joining the conversation by leaving comments.

Alisa, who blogs at Happily Ever After recently explained why comments are so important to a blogger: “I love your comments. They help me feel good about this blog and all of the work I put into it. On nights like tonight, when the urge to write the blog triggers an appearance of ‘Mean Mommy,’ it’s your comments that make it all seem worth the effort.”

Any writer who keeps a blog enjoys feedback. This is why I’m so happy many of you have started commenting. Take Beverly. She only became an official follower last week but has already left two comments and even emailed an article about Google co-founder Larry Page who “recently introduced goats to Google campus lawn; animals less harmful to the environment than lawn mower,” relevant to my topic that day. Or, Cat. Upon returning home to California, this former guest sent me the photo, below, with the comment, “I enjoyed your blog today and was reminded of our wonderful explorations of the nearly people-less sand bars of Great Island at low tide.” Tim, in New York, wrote a few days ago, “I just wanted to say how much I enjoy reading your blog on a weekly basis. My wife and I - along with several friends - have been visiting Wellfleet the past seven summers, and I love reading about the town on your site, keeping me up to date.” After an Economic Development Committee meeting last spring, an important member of the Preservation Hall board leaned towards me and whispered, “Love your blog!” And today Karin, a new arrival to Wellfleet and regular blog reader, knocked on my door to say hello.

This type of thing makes me feel all warm inside. Bloggers send their words out into cyberspace. Knowing they reach actual people and move them is extraordinary. Thank you, readers!

Fall for the Arts in Wellfleet This Weekend

Since it’s Friday, I am going to do a quick rundown of activities over the weekend, another damp one, but unfortunately not of a run-through-the-raindrops type. The weather report forecasts a tropical downpour tomorrow after 40-degree temperatures tonight. Let's hope the clouds clear by Sunday when we roller-coaster back up to 70 again. Today it’s chilly, but the sun is out. What can I say? Welcome to fall in New England!

The whole Cape is celebrating Fall for the Arts, and many of Wellfleet’s galleries plan to participate. You can see art in the strangest places, as in the photo above, taken on Duck Creek. Or, how about art at the liquor store? Rob and Tom, at Wellfleet Wine Cellar & Spirits, offer wine-tasting from 4-7 Friday, while folks admire etchings and jewelry by local artist Bethia Brehmer. Of course, our many excellent galleries will also open their doors. At W.H.A.T., The Blue Room will close Oct. 3, so do not miss these last two performances, if you have not yet seen the David Hare play.

Folks with children might be interested in bidding on the incredible dollhouse, currently on display at the library, to benefit the Wellfleet Council on Aging.

Since there will be rain on Saturday, how about a massage at Quiet Minds Studio?

Of course, great seafood is available at the Wellfleet restaurants, which are still open, including Mac’s Shack, Pearl, Wicked Oyster, The Bookstore, Winslow’s Tavern, Finely JPs, Catch of the Day, Van Renselaer's, Flying Fish, Wellfleet Pizza, and Moby Dick’s.

Here's the promo for this Cape-wide event: “The Fall for the Arts Festival will feature art exhibitions, musical performances, theater, children's activities and tours in more than 450 venues Cape-wide. Special discounts in galleries, shops and museums will be offered. The Festival showcases the region's exciting cultural scene, offering visitors and residents the opportunity to meet and talk with artists, enjoy live entertainment, discover cultural organizations, visit museums, take a walk through history, sample fine cuisine, and even create their own works of art. Fall for the Arts highlights what is unique about each town, presenting each community's individual flavor.”

Riding the Flex Bus from Wellfleet to Orleans

The Flex Bus has always sounded like a great idea, so when our Volvo spent the night with a mechanic in Orleans, I jumped at the opportunity to try out this energy-efficient means of travel: Cape Cod Regional Transit Authority or CCRTA. Unfortunately, our schedule only worked with the first bus. No matter. I’m an old hand at rising early, so I called to make an appointment. We chose to meet at Seamens’ Bank rather than have it “flex” down our dirt road in case this proved too much of a challenge.

“Should we be there at 7:40?” I asked and the woman confirmed that exact time.

Off Sven and I went this morning, arriving at Route 6, a minute or two after 7:30. To my horror, I see the bus whiz past and veer onto Main Street towards the stop in Wellfleet center.

“Okay, Sven. You wait at Seamens’ and I’ll flag it down.”

I felt like a cowboy, trying to rope a recalcitrant steer. I take up position at the intersection with my lasso. Five minutes later, the bus swings into view as the light turns red. I rush to the door and knock ferociously. The driver opens it a crack.

“Hi!” (I’m using my most cheerful voice.) “Weren’t you supposed to pick two people up at Seamens’ Bank?”

“I was there. You weren’t,” said the driver, not the verbal type.

We were, at 7:33, but why argue?

“My husband’s across the street. Could you pick us up? We really need to get to Orleans.”

“I’ll turn around,” he says gruffly, not really wanting to.

Once on board, I reach for my wallet and find it went AWOL.

“OMG! I left my money at home. Can I write you a check?”

“No checks. Just cash.”

“Wait!” said Sven. “I’ll get money at the ATM.”

The surly driver and I wait, sneaking curious peeks at each other from time to time. There are two other passengers on the bus, resigned somehow to this delay.

Then we discover Flex Bus drivers do not make change. We owe $4 each, since the extra stop raised the rate from $2. Seeing my distress, the driver allows us to remain on board and off we go at a fast clip, zipping past Jim Rose’s tomato stand and the WHAT theater complex. For once I get to enjoy the marshland in South Wellfleet, hard to appreciate with the need to concentrate on traffic. The bus flexes off Route 6 into Eastham village and pulls up at 1165. After three minutes, the driver has a brief phone conversation with a superior.

“It happens every week!” giggles the female passenger. “I take the bus every day. Every day we stop and no one gets on.”

The male passenger sits sullen, eyes closed, perhaps asleep?

We're moving again. The driver turns off Route 6 at the Salt Pond Visitor Center, which offers a DVD about the Flex Bus in the hope more people will go car-free on the Outer Cape. There are no passengers in sight at 8:05 so we don’t even slow down.

A couple boards the bus at the Eastham Superette. That makes seven of us, including the driver. Soon the Orleans rotary is in view. We pull into the Stop & Shop parking lot at 8:15. The nice talkative lady gets off.

“Run inside and make change,” the driver orders, somewhat more friendly now.

Once back on board, we bump up Route 6 A to the center of Orleans. The bus doesn’t stop at the CVS since there are no passengers waiting outside. At 8:20 we reach Shaw’s. The driver continues on to Harwich, alone.

From June 20th to September 8 the Flex Bus runs more frequently. The off-season schedule seems whimsical, with only five trips per day. As we discovered, you have to really want to ride this bus and reach the stop early to be picked up at all. No buses on Sunday. To request a flex off the regular route, call 800 352 7155. Riding a bus is obviously better for the planet. One other benefit is you get to appreciate the landscape more and can observe things that go unnoticed when driving. I’m glad we finally tried this method of regional transportation. Not sure I would do it again, though. Too much risk of missing the bus!

Bravo, Lisa Jackson!

Here's some great news: The EPA plans to review six controversial chemicals and reform US toxic chemicals policy. Lisa Jackson announced this decision yesterday. Some of you may not yet know who Ms. Jackson is. She’s President Obama’s EPA administrator. I wrote Lisa Jackson two weeks ago after seeing her name in a New York Times article regarding polluted water in West Virginia:

"I read with interest of your intention to strengthen water regulations and applaud you on this as a green innkeeper and a concerned citizen. Here on Cape Cod we have a specific problem, which you might not know about, related to ground water. In June 2010, NStar intends to do herbicidal spraying of vegetation beneath the power lines, which must be cleared per Federal law. The utility company plans to use at least four herbicides, which will end up in our sole source aquifer. In a region with sandy soil and private wells, toxic chemicals should not be allowed to enter the ground water supply, especially in 2010, with all we know about body burden. Cancer rates on Cape Cod are already high. Concerned citizens in Eastham, Wellfleet, and Truro oppose the spraying. I urge you to take a stand and recommend NStar use mechanical machinery to remove the brush, as has been the procedure in the past, rather than toxic herbicides. Thank you for your attention."

Now, I cannot tell for sure, but I think her assistants may have been impressed by the volumes of correspondence that are rolling in because Ms. Jackson gave a speech yesterday in San Francisco. She described the movement as “new environmentalism” as opposed to “old environmentalism.” One of the chemicals is BPA. Another under study will be phtalates, in pliable plastic. Environmental Health News reports in full here. To quote just one sentence from Ms. Jackson's speech: “'The power of citizenry should never be ignored,' she said. (For example, mothers of infants concerned about chemical exposure have prompted many manufacturers to produce BPA-free baby bottles.)"

This feels like a major victory. Of course, there's still much work to do. For instance, the Environmental Working Group just completed research that confirms the danger of cell phone radiation, something Sven and I have feared for years. To donate to EWG so they can pursue similar studies on other controversial topics, go here, and keep that cell phone away from your head!